My guide picks out the top Kuala Lumpur attractions, restaurants and hotels for a two day stopover in Malaysia.
Day one
KL Tower for the best city views
Have a wander through the KL Forest Eco Park, the oldest protected piece of jungle in Malaysia. Rickety bridges and forest path head through the bamboo and banana plants, eventually leading to the KL Tower. It’s no longer the tallest tower in the city, but the 300 metre high Skydeck has the best Kuala Lumpur city views – which include the taller, and genuinely graceful, Petronas twin towers.
Shop for Royal Selangor pewter and batik clothing
KL is mallrat heaven, with the 11 floor Pavilion centre having most to offer. For something local, the Royal Selangor shop near the third floor entrance sells trinkets – including model Mickey Mouses and R2D2s – made from pewter. To go further down the locally-made route, the Kuala Lumpur Craft Complex sells woodwork, weaving and multi-coloured batik clothing that’s either beautiful or way OTT, depending on your luridness threshold.
Take the train to the Batu Caves
The Batu Caves, at the end of the KTM Komuter train line, are a Hindu pilgrimage site and a thorough assault on the senses. The 42 metre-tall golden statue of Hindu god Lord Murugan stands beside 272 sweaty steps towards the caves, where you can see shrines and somewhat trippy dioramas if you can get past the marauding, food-thieving monkeys.
Helipad bar for cocktails with a view
Are there classier cocktail joints in KL than the Helipad? Sure. But do any of the others serve cheap appletinis on an open air helipad high above the city, with 360 degree views? No. If it’s raining, the indoor bar filled with random bits of aircraft fuselage down the stairs is worth a look too. It’s on the 34th floor of the Menara KH on Jalan Sultan Ismail.
Bijan for high quality Malaysian cuisine
Bijan provides a mighty fine introduction to Malay cuisine, using local produce apart from the prime imported Australian beef, and insisting on zero MSG. Dishes such as the ayam kampung limau purut – free range chicken in a spicy gravy of chilies, turmeric, kaffir lime and coconut milk – are there for those who want to go exploring. But the beef rendang is superb for those who want the classics, done well.
Day two of a Kuala Lumpur stopover
A walk through Kuala Lumpur’s historic architecture
Most of Kuala Lumpur’s impressive historic buildings congregate around Merdeka Square, which I’d call one of the top six reasons to visit Kuala Lumpur. Book-end a walk with mosques old and new, starting at the Moghul-style Masjid Jamek and finishing with the more contemporary, blue-tiled, umbrella-roofed Masjid Negara, and there will be plenty of photo opportunities. Other stars include the Moorish-tinged Sultan Abdul Samad building and the giddily gaudy Sri Mahamariamman Temple, which sums up KL’s multicultural mix by being a Hindu temple in the middle of Chinatown.
Lot 10 Hutong’s hawker stalls
Lot 10 Hutong cherry picked the best hawker stalls from around the city that have been going for two or three generations, then invited them to come together in a maze-like basement. Picking the best signature dish is a nigh-on impossible task, but Restoran Soong Kee has been doing its beef ball noodles since 1945, and by heavens it’s good.
Chill out in the Lake Gardens
To the east of the city centre, the Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park – formerly known as the Lake Gardens – is KL’s most blissful hangout. The hibiscus and orchid gardens combine with a waterfall, fernarium, wetland and deer park.
Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia for model mosques
The sumptuously decorative Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia has an enjoyable collection of ceramics, silk, calligraphy and more from around the Islamic world. But the true highlight is the architecture section, with dozens of scale models of mosques. Many – especially those in Saudi Arabia – are ones that non-Muslims won’t be able to see in real life, and the story of how design has evolved through the centuries to absorb local trends is fascinating.
When to visit Kuala Lumpur
Whenever you go, Kuala Lumpur will be hot and humid, though afternoon rainstorms are more ferocious during the monsoon seasons between March and May, then October and December. Flight prices tend to be cheapest in May and early June, while festivals cluster in January and February.
Kuala Lumpur hotel recommendations
Tapping into KL’s strong creative streak, the RED has the city’s tallest mural down the side of the building. The traditional setting – it’s surrounded by gorgeous old shophouses – is off-set with sharp, millennial-targeted design, art and extremely loveable bird-shaped lamps.
The moodily lit RuMa has several nods to the city’s tin mining past, such as the drill-like spiral staircases, plus a fabulous gold-flecked pool. The real strength is in the lack of pettiness, though. Mini bars are complimentary and rooms are guaranteed to be available for whenever you want to check in or check out – a godsend if flying in or out at unsociable hours.
The Majestic taps into KL’s colonial heritage with a wood-panelled drawing room, tea lounge and orchid greenhouse. The rooms have heavy art deco nods and the spa pays homage to Glaswegian architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh.
