Reasons to book a break in Durban include a unique shark tour, a memorable history lesson at KwaMuhle and the biggest mosque in the Southern Hemisphere.
Durban has many guises. For some, it is a mere gateway to the wildlife-packed parks and reserves of kwaZulu-Natal. For others, it’s South Africa’s biggest port. For others, it’s a beach destination, with several kilometres of golden sands lapped at by the Indian Ocean.
South Africa’s third largest city feels more racially integrated than Johannesburg or Cape Town, if not as dynamic or creative. The large Indian population also has a strong influence. And while many skip the centre and head for more affluent mall-lined outposts up the coast, you can have a fascinating experience if you hone in on the right pockets.
The shark safety net tour
There are a few fairly mediocre boat trips that leave from Durban’s waterfront, but the one run by the kwaZulu-Natal Sharks Board is rather different. That’s partly because it’s a working trip as well as a pleasure cruise. Sure, you’ll get to see the beaches and landmarks such as the Moses Mabhida Stadium, but its primary purpose is to service the shark safety nets off Durban’s beaches. That makes the jaunt a good opportunity to learn about the region’s rather toothy marine life, and see up close the efforts that are made to protect swimmers on the Golden Mile beaches from it. The trip lasts two hours and must be booked in advance.
The history lesson at KwaMuhle
The jarring thing about KwaMuhle, a museum about South Africa’s past, is how long it takes for the dates to register. The building was once where black South Africans came to be given work permits to work in the city, but this was in place way before the Apartheid regime took over. “The Durban System” – which segregated by race, imposed the need for black workers to have passes to be in certain areas and reserved skilled work for whites – came in during the early 20th century, and basically acted as the forerunner to many of Apartheid’s disgraces.
The KwaMuhle museum is a little all-over-the-shop, but frequently thought-provoking. One section covers the story of a man who killed five by bombing a shopping centre, and the shades of grey in it – not least the father of the one of the victims accepting this was part of a war for freedom – are regularly surprising.
The chaos of the Indian District
Close to KwaMuhle, the Indian District is something of a chaotic mix, and feels like a hit of real South Africa, rather than the cloistered retreats from it that can sometimes be found along the coast. People sell cigarette lighters and TV remote controls on top of upturned cardboard boxes, shops are piled high with lightbulb fittings and plastic footwear, and there’s nary a recognisable shop or brand name to be seen.
In amongst this bedlam is an absolute beauty, though. Juma Masjid is a graceful multi-domed beauty of a mosque that could have been transplanted straight from colonial India. It is, the local authorities proudly boast, the largest mosque in the Southern Hemisphere.
Demolishing a bunny chow
Durban’s contribution to the culinary world is bunny chow – essentially, a loaf of bread hollowed out, with curry poured inside it. It works surprisingly well, and Oriental inside the Workshop Mall just next to the Central Market is as good a place as any to try it. A quarter loaf mutton bunny chow is the standout – although more conventional shawarmas and curries are also available.
Keeping the kids entertained at uShaka Marine World
uShaka Marine World is Durban’s primary attraction – or, rather, slightly weird gathering of attractions. The main two are Wet N Wild – a waterpark packed with slides, rapid rides and pools – and Sea World. The latter plays host to some ethically questionable wildlife shows, but it’s also the largest aquarium in the southern hemisphere and the aquarium section – built into a ship – is genuinely excellent. Sharks, stingrays and some incredibly brightly-coloured tropical fish flit around in big tanks, and there’s an educational slant to the signage.
Clambering over the Moses Mabhida Stadium
Durban’s new-ish pride and joy is the Moses Mabhida Stadium, which was built for the 2010 World Cup, and was in danger of becoming something of a white elephant. But it has found a new lease of life hosting music concerts as well as sporting events – and becoming a brilliantly bizarre adventure activities centre. Options include the Adventure Walk, which essentially means clambering up the outside of the stadium’s 106 metre-high arch, and Segway tours.
Indulgent steaks at Butcher Block
Central Durban is uninspiring at night, but Florida Road in the affluent Berea area is buzzing with restaurants and cafés, most of which are in gorgeous old buildings. Of these, Butcher Block (butcherblock.co.za) is the one for meat-eaters. It does good schnitzels and lamb shanks, but the steaks are what you really come here for. Plump for the fillet with rich Roquefort sauce.
More Durban experiences
For day trips from Durban and other experiences, check out the selection on Viator. This is an affiliate link, and I will earn commission from anything booked through it.
