The Welsh capital has a cracking castle, plenty of Doctor Who links and some fascinating arcades.
What makes Cardiff unique?
Once home to a Roman fort, but only becoming a city in 1905, Cardiff’s lack of attachment to the past gives Cardiff a blank slate attitude. It feels open to new ideas and big, transformative projects, while also being handily condensed. A big student population keeps it young, while its status as national capital brings in the drive and creative forces of government and media.
The latter also includes being the home of Doctor Who. The Visit Wales website has a good list of previous filming locations, and there are Doctor Who-themed walking tours.
A walk through Cardiff’s highlights
Cardiff On Foot’s two hour walking tour is a fine way to get a grasp on the city. And it does a good job of pointing out idiosyncrasies that might otherwise be missed. These include the Cornerstone, locally known as “the Ballast Church” because it was constructed from ballast dumped by ships visiting from all over the world.
That ballast was usually replaced by coal – something which becomes apparent in the Cardiff Story. The museum has some fairly mediocre sections with local people talking about their work, but it’s most interesting when it delves into the extraordinary change that the Welsh coalfields brought to Cardiff, making it the biggest coal port in the world then eventually the city it is today.
The other worthwhile museum is the National Museum Cardiff, which has some relatively engaging natural history and geology sections downstairs, and the largest collection of French impressionist art outside Paris on the upper levels.
For some fresh air, Bute Park forms the bulk of a five mile stretch of green belt that runs along the river Taff. It’s popular for picnics, lunchtime escapes and dog-walking – while carved wooden sculptures and Stonehenge-ish Celtic standing stones are other mildly diverting features.
Cardiff’s top attraction
Wales is rightly proud of its absurdly high concentration of castles, and Cardiff Castle should act as a taster for the rest of the country. Built on the walls of the Roman fort, it’s something of a hodge-podge, with the main neo-Gothic fantasy house being a mid-19th century addition. The rooms inside this are opulent, with the ceilings and stained glass windows in particular getting the over-decoration treatment. But it’s arguably more evocative elsewhere, with the semi-ruined keep in the middle having the fairytale looks, and the World War II shelters in the battlement walls giving a strong sense of what it was like hiding from the bombs.
Top tip
The walk between the city centre and the revitalised Cardiff Bay is pretty unappealing, so take a boat instead. Cardiff Boat charges £7.50 for the journey up or down the Taff, with commentary about key buildings – such as the giant Principality Stadium that hosted 2017’s Champions League final – and local history on the way.
Cardiff tours and experiences
Other Cardiff activities include a Cardiff Bay boat cruise, guided bike tours and a food tour through the arcades.
Where to eat in Cardiff
The Potted Pig is the top spot for a feast. Inside a former bank vault, it goes in for big, meaty dishes full of flavour and chargrilled steaks. For the local touch, try the Welsh lamb rump, with confit belly, bulgur wheat & smoked aubergine.
But the most notable food trend in Cardiff is innovative Indian. Eschewing old curry house staples, several joints seem to have “street chef” in their name, but top of the tree is the Purple Poppadom. Here, very specific regional dishes are honed in on and tweaked. The tiffin seabass on a bed of curry leaf-infused mashed potato is the signature dish.
Shopping in Cardiff
The massive St David’s shopping centre dominates the centre of the city, huddling in the medium-level high street names and department stores. But Cardiff’s shopping soul lies in its arcades, which generally feature specialist stores and delis. The Castle Arcade, for example, is home to Rules Of Play which devotes itself to board games. And the much-beloved Spillers in the Morgan Arcade is the world’s oldest record shop, having been set up in 1894.
Cardiff hotel recommendations
Options in the city centre tend to be functional and business-like, although the Park Plaza pulls off the classiest vibe, with a lobby of contemporary fire places and 20 metre stainless steel pool
Perhaps the most interesting new addition to the hotel scene is the Coal Exchange in Cardiff Bay. Once the commercial hub of the coal industry, this was where the first ever million pound cheque was signed. High-ceilinged rooms have been done up sassily with massive padded headboards, spa baths and furniture with plenty of period design flourishes.
