New Zealand’s biggest city has undergone dramatic improvements, fitting of the gorgeous natural setting.
What makes Auckland unique?
New Zealand’s gateway and largest city is the de facto capital of Polynesia, and it’s beginning to make the most of its natural blessings. Auckland is squeezed into an isthmus, with natural harbours on each side, a sprinkling of islands to its east and a series of volcanic cones sprinkled throughout. In short, it should the sort of destination that gets talked about in the same breath as Sydney, Cape Town or Rio De Janeiro.
It isn’t, largely because Auckland has never truly hit its stride. But this is changing. New developments are giving the city a genuine dose of cool – and Auckland may be about to make the most of what it has been given.
A walk through Auckland’s highlights
Spending a day taking on the 16km coast to coast walk is the classic way to both get fit and take in many of Auckland’s best attractions. Take the train from Britomart Station to Onehunga, then follow the signs.
The route involves climbing up two volcanic cones – One Tree Hill where cows and sheep roam free in an incongruous urban setting, and Mt Eden. The latter is the highest point in the city and has spectacular harbour views.
Near the end of the trek, you’ll find the sprawling parklands of the Auckland Domain, which plays host to the excellent Auckland Museum. The bottom floor has great collections on Maori and Pacific Islander culture and history, while the first place is all about New Zealand’s tempestuous geology. Volcano and earthquake geeks should head straight up there.
Five great things to do while you’re in Auckland
- Spot whales and dolphins on a half day Hauraki Gulf Marine Park cruise.
- Indulge in Waiheke Island’s finest produce on a food and wine tour.
- See the city from above at the top of the Auckland Sky Tower.
- Enjoy a sunset cruise on Auckland Harbour – with a three course dinner.
- Explore Auckland’s wild side – visiting the city’s black sand beaches and rainforest.
The best ferry ride in Auckland
For all Auckland’s improvements, the city centre is not its strength. Central Auckland is best used as a base for a series of half or full day trips to the genuinely beautiful places within its boundaries – like the Hauraki Gulf islands, or the black sand beaches such as Karekare and Piha on the west coast.
Waiheke Island is technically a suburb, but acts as Aucklanders’ favourite weekend retreat. Some of New Zealand’s best destination dining restaurants can be found on the vine-covered hilltops, while there are walking trails with magical clifftop views criss-crossing the island, and a series of impressive beaches such as the long straight stretch at Onetangi. Ferries take half an hour to get there from downtown, and run until late.
Once on Waiheke Island, you can use the hop-on, hop-off explorer bus to get around or take a gourmet food and wine tour.
Auckland tours and experiences
New Zealand won the America’s Cup earlier in the year, and bumbling amateurs have their chance to play at being world class yachtsmen in the Explore Group’s America’s Cup Sailing Experience. It’s a twist on a classic harbour cruise, in a racing yacht used as a training vessel for the big event, and passengers get roped in as crew to grind, tack and jibe the yacht at high speed.
Other good Auckland tours and experiences include a dolphin and whale-watching cruise, a drive through the rainforest to Piha Beach and a food tour.
Where to eat in Auckland
Ponsonby Central is the best example of how Auckland is trying new ideas and getting a bit of cool. It feels like a cross between a traditional restaurant strip and a food court. Every joint caters to its own niche, whether rotisserie chicken or Argentinian barbecue, while giving an overall vibe of a coherent whole. It has surprises in store too, sprawling down two adjacent laneways.
Culprit is giving the dim sum concept a New Zealand twist. Individually-priced mini-dishes arrive on trolleys, but include local ingredients such as honey yams, venison carpaccios or king fish chowders. It’s experimental and largely high quality.
Shopping in Auckland
The Queen’s Arcade, a Georgian diversion off main shopping strip Queen Street, is home to several specialists, many of which sell distinctive Kiwi items, such as possum knitwear, wood carvings or greenstone jewellery. There’s also Marbeck’s, a fantastic record shop that makes special efforts to give prominence to emerging local artists.
The Britomart precinct around the main transit centre has been given a tremendous makeover too, and it is now home to several flagship stores for New Zealand designers.
Auckland hotel recommendations
The Great Ponsonby Art Hotel is essentially a B&B, but one done exactly right, with lots of Pacific Islander art influences, and staff that are delighted to give you the run down of their favourite local places to eat. Fairtrade teas and hot chocolates are in the rooms and beds are comfy.
Of the chain hotels, the Hilton has a perfect waterside location and an amiable quirk factor. It has been designed to look like a cruise ship from the outside, and doubles down on nautical décor inside, right down to the wave pattern carpets.
The Hotel DeBrett is the most likeable high end option though. It’s theatrical, eccentric, covered in art and livened up with a contradictory mix of antique furniture and uber-contemporary furnishing.
More New Zealand North Island travel
Other New Zealand North Island travel articles on Planet Whitley include:
- A three week New Zealand travel itinerary.
- Pedal-powered monorail: Riding the Shweeb in Rotorua.
- Kayaking to the Mine Bay Maori rock carvings on Lake Taupo.
- The best places to go jetboating in New Zealand.
- Tackling the Tongariro Alpine Crossing – New Zealand’s best day walk.
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