A first time visitor’s guide to Porto

Porto’s top attractions include the Palácio da Bolsa, cathedral and Dom Luis I bridge.

What makes Porto unique

There’s a stubborn, no-nonsense streak to Portugal’s second city that serves only to underplay just how gorgeous it is. Long a strategic trading port where the Douro river meets the Atlantic Ocean, the city clambers up steep hillsides, terraced gardens slotting into the view amongst an endearingly shambolic mess of colourfully-painted houses, spires and imposing granite public buildings. A series of show-stopping bridges span the Douro and once on dry land, the city becomes a mesmerising tangle of sloping lanes.

It’s a city with a heritage – Portugal’s explorations around the world in the Age of Discovery arguably kicked off here – but it is quite happy to embrace the modern too. Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas’ startlingly asymmetrical Casa da Musica is a great example of this.

A walk through Porto’s highlights

In a city this hilly, it’s always wise to start high and work your way down. So start at the Dom Luis I bridge, a gorgeous piece of ironwork created by a student of Gustav Eiffel’s, for tremendous views 44.6m above the river.

The Dom Luis I bridge in Porto, Portugal. Photo by David Whitley.

From there, head past the stoutly austere cathedral exterior down a maze of curving streets towards the historic and gorgeously atmospheric Ribeira neighbourhood.

Standing aloof from Ribeira’s nooks and crannies is the Palácio da Bolsa, a 19th century showcase for the wealth of the local chamber of commerce. Several rooms have a wow factor. The general assembly room looks like it’s all intricately carved wood, but it’s actually cleverly-painted plaster, while the Arabian Hall is an eye-popping, no-holds-barred blizzard of dazzlingly ornate detail.

Nearby is the Casa do Infante at Rua da Alfândega, 10. It’s the city’s former customs house where Portuguese exploration pioneer Henry the Navigator was supposedly born. Inside are displays on how Portugal pioneered global exploration in the 15th century, eventually staking out highly lucrative claims in Asia, Africa and South America.

Further west, near the river, World of Discoveries is a weird combination of theme park ride and museum. Visitors take a boat ride through recreated scenes of Africa, South America and Asia, learning about Portugal’s Age of Discovery. Tickets should be booked online in advance.

Porto’s top attraction

The Centro Português de Fotografia hosts changing temporary exhibitions of variable quality, and has plenty to keep the interest in the permanent collection. But the real star is the building, a hulking great former prison. Echoes of the past – the intimidating stone walls, the central courtyard that the wings spring from, the portcullis-style metal doors – have been maintained to tremendous effect.

Where to go for great views in Porto

The Jardim do Palácio de Cristal is not so much one garden as several that interlink on top of a terraced clifftop. The layout is crisply maintained and formal, with locals all having their own favourite part to pull up in for a breather. Explore properly, and you’ll get several different viewpoints showing different aspects of the river and its bridges.

Where to eat in Porto

Portugal’s biggest name chef, José Avillez, is behind the Cantinho do Avillez, which goes for in for a little pastiche rusticism and puts international twists on Portuguese favourites – hence the likes of the veal with curry sauce.

Where to shop in Porto

Promoteu Artesanata at Rua João das Regras 289 in Ribeira plumps for the classier end of the souvenirs and giftware market, with lots of clay figurines and model ships. But the tile art is the strong point – the back wall is full of beautiful painted tiles, some with the more traditional blue and white picture look, others opting for more colourful, geometric designs.

A strong contender for the title of the world’s most beautiful bookshop, the Livraria Lello at Rua das Carmelitas 144 is worth a peek even if not buying books. The sumptuous butterfly-esque wooden staircase and clambering shelves are supremely dreamy.

Porto hotel recommendations

New addition, the Porto River apartment hotel is in a primo riverside position, and offers up slick apartments with light wood floors and full kitchens. But original features – wooden ceilings and stone walls – have been kept intact.

The Eurostars das Artes is a four star with design pretensions, and the rotating art displays in the lobby are a nice touch. But the quality is extraordinarily high for the rates – which can dip surprisingly low in the off-peak months.

For something with a little more personality, the Teatro fully plays up the theatre backstage theme. Spotlights, shimmery gold curtains, and a lobby that feels like a plush green room add to considerable design flair.