The Salem Witch Trials of 1692 have given way to a city obsessed with Halloween.
What makes Salem unique?
In 1692, Salem went very dark indeed. The strange behaviour of a few children descended into a blizzard of accusations of witchcraft. Neighbours turned on each other, and the accused implicated others in a bid to stave off their executions.
Twenty ‘witches’ were eventually executed, and five more died in jail, before the Governor of Massachusetts’ wife was accused and the madness was brought to an abrupt end.
The story is one that has resonated ever since – and Salem’s response to its notoriety has been unusual. Shame has been turned to whole-hearted and often kitschy embrace, with a wealth of attractions and tours based on a witchy, spooky theme. In October, in particular, the city goes overboard in the run up to Halloween.
But the surprise is that Salem has more strings to its bow, with rich literary, cultural and maritime heritage blended in amongst a highly walkable and handsome city centre. The spell it weaves is not necessarily the one anticipated.
A walk through Salem’s highlights
There are several museums (of varying quality) that attempt to tell the tale of the Salem Witch Trials, and the Salem Witch Museum is the best of them. It’s split into two halves – the first being all stage sets, dramatic narration and atmospherics, and the arguably more interesting second half covering witch hunts throughout history.
From there, head into the centre of town where the Peabody Essex Museum is the oldest art museum in the country. The collection is pretty good – with a large Asian influence – but its strength is thoughtful, innovative presentation. A great example is a painting in the maritime gallery with an unknown artist. Other works by the two most likely painters are displayed next to it, and the visitor is asked to make up their own mind whose handiwork it is most likely to be.
Making decisions is also the key component of Cry Innocent: The People Versus Bridget Bishop. Best billed as interactive theatre, the audience acts as jury, deciding whether to commit Bridget Bishop – the first of the Salem ‘witches’ to be hanged – to trial. Witness testimonies, a blizzard of information and pressure to accept the often absurd evidence give a good idea of how the hysteria whipped up.
Salem’s best activity
The Schooner Fame is a lovingly-made replica of an 1811 ship used as a privateer to capture British ships, and it is taken out for a sail on Salem Sound. It’s a wonderfully peaceful way to explore the surrounding area, ogling beautiful waterside homes, vintage lighthouses and birdlife. The crew are happy to let passengers have a go at hoisting the sails, and are full of eagerly-studied historical information about Salem and surrounds.
Other Salem tours and activities include a history and hauntings walking tour, a Hocus Pocus movie locations tour and a broom-making workshop.
Where to eat in Salem, Massachusetts
The Adriatic has a few outdoor terrace seats to watch the world go by from, and a menu that specialises in seafood, but also offers up other Mediterranean flair including a eggplant parmigiana and brick oven pizzas.
Fish is also to the fore at Finz on Pickering Wharf. The North Atlantic haddock with lump crab meat, mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables is excellent, and the waterside setting gives it a touch of class.
Shopper’s Paradise
Shopping isn’t Salem’s strongest suit – there’s a sea of chintz and vaguely witch-themed tat out there. But Wicked Good Books at 215 Essex Street is a good bet for reading material – with an impressively large section on local history and the Witch Trials.
Modern Millie at 3 Central Street is the most likeable of the fashion boutiques. It’s full of cutesy, perky dresses that are retro, but with heavy helpings of sass.
Salem accommodation recommendations
The Salem Waterfront Hotel has a prime location on Pickering Wharf. There’s plenty of parking, a small pool and a solid on-site pub/ restaurant. Rooms are spacious but don’t bust a gut to win any design awards – though there’s very little to complain about.
For something more historic, the Hawthorne is a Salem staple. The lobby is lined with books, floral print sofas and information about the hotel’s past. Rooms veer close to primly old-fashioned but have comfortable beds.
There are also a few B&Bs, of which the Morning Glory ramps up the period charm with four poster beds in a handsome Georgian house.
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