An ideal 24 hours in Edinburgh includes climbing Arthur’s Seat, the Royal Mile without the crowds and a ghost tour at Real Mary King’s Close.
Why Edinburgh is worth visiting
Edinburgh’s a rare character – both instantly loveable and fascinatingly complex. Age has bestowed distinguished handsomeness rather than decay, and there’s a learned air to the city. A strong literary heritage – from Walter Scott and Robert Louis-Stevenson to JK Rowling and Ian Rankin – helps, as does the cultural bonanza of the Edinburgh Festivals every August.
The Scottish capital seems master-blended, with the right doses of fine food, history, architecture and pure fun. Manageably small, Edinburgh hides a wealth of monuments, memorials and treasures down seemingly innocuous alleyways. But at the same time it pulls off a regal grandeur that makes it incredibly hard to forget.
There’s a wealth of Edinburgh activities and experiences to explore, but if you’ve just got 24 hours in the Scottish capital, here’s how I recommend you spend your day.
05:30: Climb Arthur’s seat for sunrise
A perfect day in Edinburgh starts with a 45-minute wake-up walk through Holyrood Park – the former Royal hunting grounds – to the 251m-high summit of Arthur’s Seat. The extinct volcano is the perfect perch for a photogenic sunrise.

07.30: Walk the Royal Mile without the crowds
Before the crowds get in the way, gawp at the architecture along the Royal Mile between Holyrood Palace and Edinburgh Castle. Highlights? Canongate Kirk and the Scottish Parliament Building’s post-modernist visual free-for-all.
08.30: Breakfast at the Edinburgh Larder
Fill up on locally-sourced salmon and scrambled eggs – or top grade porridge – at the Edinburgh Larder. Alternatively, do coffee at the Elephant House, as JK Rowling did while writing the Harry Potter books.
Five great things to do while you’re in Edinburgh
Discover the Old Town’s underground vaults on a walking tour.
- Follow the Da Vinci Code on a Rosslyn Chapel day tour.
- Learn dozens of stories on a guided walk of the Royal Mile and Old Town.
- Explore the best places to eat in Edinburgh on a food tour.
- Let an expert guide take you around Edinburgh’s Harry Potter locations.
09.30: See the Honours of Scotland inside Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle is home to a hodge-podge of attractions, but if pressed for time, descend into the old prisons and castle vaults then scope out the Honours of Scotland – the Scottish Crown Jewels.
Edinburgh Castle tickets sell out well in advance. Book a tour as a workaround that’ll get you in a shorter notice.
12.30: Delve into history at the National Museum of Scotland
A quick lunch at the Balcony Café can be walked off around the displays at the National Museum of Scotland. Formula One, migration, heavy industry… it’s all covered. If picking just one section, go for the basement level to learn about Scotland’s geology and early people.
Books set in Edinburgh
If you want to get a good feel for Edinburgh before visiting, it’s worth reading a book or two set there. Options include…
- Muriel Spark’s The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie – an inspirational teacher changes lives with equal parts comedy and tragedy.
- The Heart of Midlothian – arguably Sir Walter Scott’s finest work.
- Ian Rankin’s Rebus books – gripping, grouchy detective novels.
- Irvine Welsh’s Trainspotting series – for the city’s gritty side.
- David Nicholls’ One Day – an innovative and emotive romance, tracked by the same date each year.
The links above are to Amazon. You can probably get them all cheaper at World of Books, which is where I buy most of my books.
15.00: Do a ghost tour at Real Mary King’s Close
At Real Mary King’s Close, explore the warren of 17th century streets beneath The Royal Mile – complete with ghost stories and pretty grim tales of cash-strapped, disease-wracked everyday life. It’s one of the best things to do near Edinburgh Castle if you can’t get tickets.
17.00: Explore the architecture of Edinburgh’s New Town
Switch the Old Town for the uniformly grand Georgian architecture of the New Town. Charlotte Square is the crowning glory – number 6 is the First Minister’s residence – while Princes Street is serious shopping territory
19.00: Drinks and dinner in Edinburgh’s New Town
A drink in Le Di-Vin, a spectacularly converted old church with wall-climbing wine racks, should whet the appetite for dinner at Stac Polly. Expect Scottish Highland ingredients given richly inventive treatments.
21.00: Watch live comedy at the Stand
The Stand is arguably the UK’s most respected live comedy venue. And, to complete the cultural fix, the Ghillie Dhu’s live bands and folk dancing-heavy ceilidhs go on until the early hours.
More Edinburgh travel
Other Edinburgh travel stories on Planet Whitley include:
- The Dean Village: Edinburgh’s scenic escape.
- Are there any direct flights from Edinburgh to Oslo?
- Is Edinburgh Castle open on Mondays?
If you’re looking for Edinburgh tours, activities and experiences, there’s a massive selection here.
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