The former capital of West Germany brings Beethoven, Haribo and a lot more charm than you may be expecting.
What makes Bonn unique?
There must be some kind of invisible transition line running just north of Bonn, because when you arrive in the former capital of West Germany, something is notably different. Cool-headed modernism and industrial energy are replaced with something a little more sentimental and romantic. Architecture is grand and decorative rather than dashingly utilitarian.
It helps that the Rhine – not the most beautiful stretch by any means, but still thoroughly pleasing to walk along – runs through Bonn. There’s clearly plenty of money sloshing around too. Moving the capital back to Berlin didn’t cut Bonn’s hamstrings all that much – six Government ministries are still based here, as well as several UN institutions. And the overall result is a city with an outsized cultural scene.
A walk through Bonn’s highlights
First stop should be the tourist information office on Windeckstrasse, which has mapped leaflets describing a few self-guided walking routes. One of these is the ‘Path of Democracy’, which concentrates on the Federal Government district and locations where important post-War events took place.
A little less dry is the one focusing on Bonn’s most famous son, Ludwig van Beethoven. This includes the church where the composer got organ tuition and the school he went to. But the main site is Beethoven House, the home where he was born that has now been turned into a museum. It’s perhaps overly reverential but gives an idea that Beethoven was born into a well-off family, and bitterly resented his loss of hearing in later life.
Also in the city centre is the Arithmeum, which is a rather grand title for a museum that’s largely about the development of the calculator. Inside are lots and lots of calculators, abacuses and computing machines, but the timeline approach makes it interesting. It tells the story of how humans have wrestled with the problems of doing maths from early Babylonian cuneiform tablets to modern day silicon chip processors.
Other Bonn attractions
If it’s the phrase “Rhine cruise” that has brought you to this part of the world, then you’re looking for a multi-day affair from one of the big European river cruise companies further upstream. It’s still pleasant to go on a boat for a few hours, though, and KD is one of several companies that offers short jaunts on the local stretch of the river between April and October.
The Museum Mile, to the south of the centre near all the government and UN buildings, has several days’ worth of cultural fixes. If picking just two, go for the Museum Koenig for natural history in a grand old building, and the Haus der Geschichte der Bundesrepublik Deutschland. This tells the story of West Germany after World War II, and Bonn’s place in it.
Unsurprisingly, given the highbrow leanings of the city’s main employers and the Beethoven connection, classical music is pretty popular in Bonn. The home-grown Beethoven Orchester Bonn puts on frequent performances in venues across the city, although mainly at the Opera House.
Bonn tours and experiences
Top Bonn activities include a guided walking tour, bean-to-bar chocolate tasting and self-guided scavenger hunts.
Where to eat in Bonn
The hot table for money-flinging political types is Remise, which does market-fresh, seasonal modern European cuisine in a showy venue that looks like an Alpine chalet from the outside and is full of attention-grabbing décor statements inside.
Much more egalitarian is the Brauhaus Bönnsch, which serves up hearty fare such as humungous pepper schnitzels. It’s cosily packed inside, with walls covered in black and white photos of visiting dignitaries such as Charles de Gaulle, JFK and… er, the Rolling Stones. There’s also a special goose-centric menu in winter.
Shopping in Bonn
The pedestrianised centre has some fine shopping opportunities, with department stores Galeria Kaufhof, Karstadt and Sinn Leffers facing off around Munsterplatz. But nearby on Am Neator is what should be heaven for anyone who likes jelly sweets – the two floor Haribo shop. Haribo is a Bonn company – the name comes from the first two letters of the founder, Hans Riegel, and the city – and inside are an astonishing array of limited edition sweeties not usually seen elsewhere. Get your Cruise Mix, Brumbasser, Drama Llama and Coala Tantzen bags to take home as gifts…
Bonn accommodation recommendations
The Living Hotel Kanzler taps into Bonn’s political history in the public areas – a big picture of former chancellor Helmut Kohl by the lifts, anyone? – but pulls off masculine-looking, stylish rooms. Plump for the double deluxe rooms. You’ll get kitchenettes, sofa beds, plus rather lavish bathrooms amongst the dark wood, gold trim and complimentary treat-stocked fridges.
If you want views out over the Rhine, the Ameron Hotel Königshof is just the ticket. The sauna and steam room are handy bonuses, while the Oliveto restaurant does highly-regarded Italian food on an imperious terrace overlooking the river.
More Germany travel
Other Germany travel articles on Planet Whitley include:
- Does the Berlin to Munich train make for a realistic day trip?
- The best time to visit the DDR Museum in Berlin.
