Czechia’s second city does things differently – and specialises in unusual attractions.
What is Brno all about?
Beyond the big capitals, worthwhile destinations tend to fall into one of two categories. They either have not much to do but are great to hang out in or are surprisingly packed with attractions without providing the amiable mooch factor. Brno in Moravia is in the latter category. The second largest city in Czechia, it has a decent energy provided by a student population and a pleasant-enough core to wander around. But its strength lies in a remarkably interesting swathe of attractions that don’t fall back on the cathedral plus art museum stereotype.
A walk around Brno’s highlights
Kick off just west of the city centre at the Mendel Museum, which is inside a former abbey and now run by the local university. The small pea garden outside is quite significant, as this was where monk Gregor Mendel did the experiments with peas that kickstarted the modern science of genetics.
From there, head to Spilberk Castle, which was once a notoriously inhospitable prison. There are several ticket options, but the tour of the casemates – which have been used as prison cells, air raid shelters and ammo storage bays in the past – is the most illuminating.
The Labyrinth under the Vegetable Market is one of several weird underground attractions. It is a network of tunnels and cellars that have been carved out over the years, and used for everything from meat storage to alchemy labs. The entertaining guided tours through the subterranean secret city tell the back story of each chamber.
Then, if that wasn’t weird enough, there’s the Ossuary at St James Church, which is simultaneously macabre and entrancing. Here, thousands of human bones and skulls lie arranged into neat formations in an underground cemetery that has accumulated new arrivals over the centuries. And just to increase the weird-out factor, specially-composed ambient music plays on a loop while you’re down there.
Brno’s top attraction
Villa Tugendhat justifiably has UNESCO World Heritage status, and is one of the most remarkable pieces of modern architecture in the world. A masterpiece of Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, who also designed much of the furniture inside, it was built as a home for a wealthy textile magnate’s daughter.
Inside, the massive open-plan living room and windows that drop into the floor combine with unusual touches such as the doors that reach right up to the ceiling. And then you head downstairs into a remarkable network of rooms full of machines that provided early air conditioning and heating systems. Tours book out weeks in advance – so plan well ahead.
Brno tours and experiences
Other possible Brno activities include a historical walking tour, a visit to the Austerlitz battlefield and an ebike and wine day trip in Moravia.
Where to eat in Brno
Brno’s centre lacks warmth, but head into the university-dominated area to the north-west (just to the north of Spilberk Castle) and there’s an inviting cluster of cafés and restaurants. Café Podnebi is a great example – it’s always full of people chatting over a coffee, and there’s a fabulous terrace at the back for summer days.
Pavilion, a modernist blocky building in the middle of small park, goes for a more upscale gleaming glasses and white table cloths look. Dishes are more traditional too, and the chocolate lava cake dessert is wonderfully decadent.
Shopping in Brno
Brno’s shopping is distinctly underwhelming. The Galerie Vankovka just south of the railway station is the main mall, and it focuses on affordable, mid-range fashion. The likes of Pandora, Desigual and O’Neill are there amongst several less well known local brands.
Galerie Arnie on Starobrenska offers something more sophisticated, with vivid paintings, elegant glassware and tableside ornaments on sale amongst the sculptures.
Brno accommodation recommendations
The Hotel International is a big modern affair, with photos of celebs who’ve stayed over the walls, a small basement pool and big breakfast spreads. Rooms feel more functional than the downstairs fanfare would suggest, but it’s the classic safe bet.
The Hotel Arte looks a little drab from the outside, but the 15 rooms inside are fresh, colourful and well kitted-out.
The Grandezza has a huge, gorgeous lobby with a stained glass roof, while rooms don’t shy away into blandness either. Minibar drinks are free, carpets are loud, and the dark woods give a sense of luxuriousness. Robes and slippers are present and correct, and the central location is plum.
More Czechia travel
Other Czechia stories on Planet Whitley include:
- Four great places to eat and drink in Prague.
- Is a day trip from Berlin to Prague realistic?
- Prague to Olomouc train times and prices.
- Where to drink in Prague away from the tourist traps.
- Is there a direct train from Prague to Cesky Krumlov?
- Five great Prague attractions for solo travellers.
- Review of the Moser glass factory tour in Karlovy Vary.
