Tropical Queensland’s favourite holiday city has more to it than just the Great Barrier Reef.
What makes Cairns unique?
Put simply, Cairns is the most easily accessible gateway to one of the great natural wonders of the planet – the Great Barrier Reef. The reef skirts pretty close off the coast of this laid-back, tropical city, which can also be used as a base for trips into the World Heritage-listed tropical rainforest that surrounds it.
But taken on its own, it’s essentially a large holiday town that doesn’t really pretend to be anything more than that. It’s big enough to feel like a real place rather than a cynical, confected, facility-free dream though. Shorts and flip-flops are the uniform in the holiday hotspot of tropical Queensland, the pace is chilled, and hair is permanently in let down mode.
A walk through Cairns’ highlights
The Flecker Botanic Gardens are in the city’s northern suburbs, and are a great place to start learning about the astonishing local plants and trees. There are two key sections – one which goes through the evolution of plants over the millennia (examples of all key steps in the process can be found in the nearby rainforests) and the other which covers traditional Aboriginal uses for plants.
There are plenty of good walking trails nearby but once you’re done with getting in touch with nature, head back into the city for the giant artificial lagoon on the Esplanade. It’s one of the world’s largest swimming pools and the city’s focal point.
Great Barrier Reef tours
Let’s face it – you’re out here for the Great Barrier Reef. And the Outer Reef is in much better condition, so make sure you go with an operator that heads out there.
Quicksilver Cruises offers an excellent all-rounder’s option, heading out on a sleek catamaran and mooring alongside a large pontoon next to the Agincourt Reef.
There’s marvellously vivid snorkelling, but also an underwater viewing trip in a semi-submersible boat. The offered upgrades – including dives and a genuinely spectacular helicopter trip over the Reef – are great too.
Another detour from Cairns
The Atherton Tablelands, just west of Cairns, is one of Australia’s top food producing regions, and many of the local producers there have their own shops. Hiring a car for a day and doing a loop of the coffee roasters, cheese-makers, nut growers and ice creameries is a fabulous way of going beyond the reef and rainforest thing.
For non-drivers, a rainforests and waterfalls tour is a good alternative.
Swimming in Cairns
Cairns has some beaches to the north, but don’t get excited about going for a swim from them. This is crocodile country – there’s a reason they built that giant artificial lagoon. A good general rule of thumb is to stay at least three metres away from the water’s edge – and that especially applies to creeks and river mouths.
Where to eat in Cairns
Dundee’s is right on the waterfront, has a lovely outdoor terrace area and does sampler plates that allow you to try Australian meats you may never have tried before – including barramundi, emu, kangaroo and crocodile.
The waterside Salt House is a sprawling, open-air joint with one of those glorious menus where just about everything appeals. These range from Penang curry-style Australian seafood hotpot to slow-cooked short rib with chilli sambal.
Shopping in Cairns
The daily markets in Kuranda, the nearest town in the Atherton Tableland are arguably the best shopping bet. Here you’ll find lots of local produce and crafts. Get there the fun way on the Kuranda Scenic Railway or the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway.
Otherwise, shopping in Cairns is pretty dismal. The Cairns Central Shopping Centre is the best of the malls, but don’t expect too much beyond standard mid-range chain fare.
More Queensland travel
- Should you visit Eumundi Markets on Wednesday or Saturday?
- A practical guide to walking in Auburn River National Park.
- A guide to walking in Bunya Mountains National Park.
- How worried should I be about crocodiles in Australia?
- Exploring the Great Barrier Reef: Best islands and tours.
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