Climbing volcanoes in Guatemala – Pacaya and Chicabal

Two Guatemalan volcanoes – Volcan Pacaya and Volcan Chicabal – show off very different sides of the country.

Booking a Guatemala volcano tour

Head here for a guided climb of Volcan Pacaya and here for a trekking tour to Chicabal’s lake.

To just enjoy the story, read on…

The lava fields of Volcan Pacaya

After around 45 minutes, the sticky, humid trek through the forest gives way to something altogether more exposed and stark. It’s no longer the tops of the trees we can see, but the top of the volcano – albeit a summit somewhat obscured by cloud. The remaining plants and stunted trees fight for life in a deadly black soil that is little more than lava ground down over the years. Up ahead, there is yet more of it, coating the mesmeric, steeply-ascending cone. The earth’s blackened fury has buried any sign of life there once was on the slopes.

Guatemala isn’t exactly short on volcanoes. In fact, the western side of the country is pretty much slotted in the gaps between them, which makes for spectacular scenery and roads where weaving from side to side is a permanent necessity.

But even given this glut, Volcan Pacaya is something a little bit special. This is partly because it’s easily accessible from both Guatemala City and the much more likeable tourist hub of Antigua. But it’s mainly because the volcano is very obviously, visibly active.

Volcan Pacaya’s eruptions

Pacaya has been regularly erupting since the 1960s and proper, fiery, gloopy red lava slides down the side of it like honey down a knife. And what’s in equal measures thrilling and terrifying is just how close you can get to that lava.

We sidle up as close as we dare, the wind hilariously taking the most cocksure member of the group’s hat for a fatal ride into the middle of the impassable gurgling fire. Long staffs are used to poke the funereally-paced tide of gunk, and the ends basically disappear on impact. Asking the guide whether this is safe or not is generally met with suspiciously incoherent mumbling.

The lake at Volcan Chicabal

Further west near Guatemala’s second city, Quetzaltenango, Volcan Chicabal offers an entirely different experience.

The walk up is equally sweaty, albeit it not as exposed to the sun. Lookouts on the way give excellent views out over yet more volcanoes, but mostly it’s a case of getting your head down and marching towards the rim. Once there, it’s not lava that wows, but the lake which has formed inside the crater.

It has a siren-like quality. Tired legs can’t resist hurtling down the 500-odd steps towards the water’s edge. But we’re not the first ones there.

Maya ceremonies at Volcan Chicabal

Chicabal has long been an important site for the Maya people who prominently inhabit the nearby area. Even before the Maya religion finally got official recognition and acceptance under law in 1996, clandestine ceremonies were held here. Now they’re done so openly.

We pass one – a modest affair – while walking round the water’s edge. But the noise is coming from further around, and it’s in Spanish, not any of the Mayan languages. And there are rather too many hallelujahs.

It turns out it’s an evangelical church outing. After centuries of Mayan ceremonies being changed to be disguised as Christian, it now seems Christian ceremonies are aping their Mayan counterparts. That they are doing so in the middle of a volcano seems wonderfully Guatemalan.

More Guatemala travel

Other Guatemala travel stories on Planet Whitley include:

• Meeting Maximon – Guatemala’s rogue saint.
• Conquering the Cueva del Tigre.