In Homestead, Florida, one man’s monument to a doomed infatuation has become a delightfully strange tourist attraction.
The strange love story behind Coral Castle
If someone ditched you the day before your wedding, you could be forgiven if you were consumed with hatred and bitterness for the rest of your days. Edward Leedskalnin was not that sort of man. In fact, he probably went a bit too far the other way.
Ed’s story of rejection, unrequited love and downright stalkiness starts back in his home country of Latvia. He was engaged to a 16-year-old called Agnes, who was ten years his junior. She had second thoughts on the eve of the big day and broke it off.
Heartbroken, Leedskalnin fled to the United States where he could have started a new life for himself, met someone new and embraced the land of opportunity. Instead he spent 20 years building a castle out of coral rock as some kind of warped tribute to the girl who thought he was a slightly creepy old man. And if that wouldn’t disabuse her of her erroneous opinion, nothing would.
Discovering Coral Castle in Florida
Ed’s Coral Castle can be found in Homestead, a nothingy sort of town that hangs like a pimple on the gigantic, sprawling bottom that is Miami. Head south and you’re pretty much into the swampy green Everglade wilderness that forms the tip of the state before US1 takes you into the Florida Keys.
On approach, it looks like something of a ruin. Ed built the place between 1920 and 1940 and since then it has not quite had the loving upkeep to match the devotion put into building it. But it is still a remarkable place.
The most remarkable thing about it, of course, is that Ed built it all on his own. He didn’t have teams of labourers hacking away at the rocks or hauling them into position. In fact, he did most of his work at night by lantern light and there are no witnesses who have come forward to say they ever saw Ed working on the castle. Essentially, he managed to build the eight foot tall and three foot thick walls – plus everything inside – without anyone ever clocking him in action.
Inside Coral Castle: Mysterious details and craftsmanship
Inside it doesn’t particularly look like the work of a master architect, but when you start looking closely, there’s incredible detail. His hand-made sundial is still accurate to within one or two minutes. He’s also created a table in the shape and proportion of Florida and a children’s play area based on the story of Goldilocks and the Three Bears.
There’s a throne room too, with thrones created for Ed, his ‘Sweet Sixteen’ and a child that he was clearly never going to have if he stalked young women by building homemade castles. Next to them is a massively uncomfortable rock seat which was created for his future mother-in-law. Unlike other items of furniture in the castle which were just a bit lacking in home-furnishing nous, this one was made deliberately awkward to sit on.
Life and legend of Edward Leedskalnin
All of this was done from basic tools, most of which he made himself. Quite whether young Agnes would have appreciated his efforts is another matter. His living quarters are a grim sight. There was no electricity or running water, food was always cooked on a home-made outdoor barbecue and the furniture in his bedroom was made from scrap metal. Not the greatest wooing joint, Ed.
He was apparently a very private man. A sign outside the front gate asked people to ring a bell twice. Anyone who rang once or more than twice, he ignored, but if he wasn’t busy he’d show people who followed the instructions around for 25 cents.
Visiting Coral Castle today
The story behind the Coral Castle is far more interesting than the building itself – it’s a roadside curiosity that makes you ask “Why?” But the more important question is “How?”
The crescent moon and planet carvings sat on top of the walls are huge and the giant obelisk is bigger than the great upright at Stonehenge. And it begs similar questions to those of Stonehenge. Edward Leedskalnin was a scrawny 5ft tall chap with no outside assistance. How on earth did he get these massive stone carvings up there? If asked he would only ever reply that he understood the laws of weight and leverage.
Odd chap.
Useful visitor information
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| What are the Coral Castle ticket prices? | Adult admission is around $18, with discounts for children, seniors, and groups. Prices may vary, so check the official site for updates. |
| What are Coral Castle’s opening hours? | Typically open daily from 9am to 7pm on weekends and 9am to 6pm on weekdays. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday. Confirm current times before visiting as seasonal hours can change. |
| Is parking available at Coral Castle? | Yes, free parking is available on site for all visitors. |
| Where is Coral Castle located? | 28655 South Dixie Highway, Homestead, Florida, about 30 miles south of Miami. |
| How can I book Coral Castle tickets online? | Reserve your visit in advance on the official Coral Castle website for the latest ticket options and tour information. |
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More Florida travel
Other Florida travel articles on Planet Whitley include:
- What’s so special about Dry Tortugas National Park?
- Guide to the St Andrews State Park to Shell Island ferry.
- A practical guide to the Cummer Museum in Jacksonville.
- What to expect when visiting the Ringling Museum in Sarasota.
- Plan your visit to the Museum of Illusions in Orlando.
