The historic mills, green gully location near the New Town and quirky monuments make Dean Village a beautiful escape from the crowds in Edinburgh.
Escaping the crowds in Edinburgh
Particularly in August during the Fringe Festival, Edinburgh can get overcrowded and overwhelming. Many visitors find themselves wanting to get away from the crowds and find some breathing space.
The two most popular escapes within the city are Calton Hill and Arthur’s Seat, but a quieter, arguably prettier option is little-known Dean Village.
What is the Dean Village in Edinburgh?
The Dean Village is an odd remnant of the rural landscape that used to lie beyond the New Town. Most of it is tucked into a deep, green gully, where the minor rapids of the Water of Leith river bubble alongside.
The gully was carved by a glacier. The land to the north of here was once as high as Everest, but over the millennia, ice has pressed it down.
The mills of the Dean Village
Within the gully is a small stone monument. On closer inspection, it is made of mill wheels – a nod to the gully’s heritage. There have been mills here since at least the 12th century.
That past explains the rampantly heterogeneous architecture that’s completely at odds with the grand Georgiana on top of the cliffs. Some of it is mills converted into social housing, some of it was built by philanthropists wanting to give the artisans and labourers somewhere to live close to their work, some of it was there way before the New Town plans kicked into gear.
Trinity Church in the Dean Village
The most dramatic part of this unexpected oasis is underneath the high, graceful arches of the Dean Bridge. Next to it stands the Trinity Church, which isn’t quite what it seems.
It’s now an electricity sub-station. Like a lot of Edinburgh churches, it has been converted into something else.
Five great things to do while you’re in Edinburgh
Discover the Old Town’s underground vaults on a walking tour.
- Follow the Da Vinci Code on a Rosslyn Chapel day tour.
- Learn dozens of stories on a guided walk of the Royal Mile and Old Town.
- Explore the best places to eat in Edinburgh on a food tour.
- Let an expert guide take you around Edinburgh’s Harry Potter locations.
Where is the Dean Village?
The Dean Village is a 1.2 mile walk west of Edinburgh Waverley Station – it should take about 25 minutes. A visit can easily be combined with a walk along the Water of Leith towards the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh.
Dean Village tours
If you really want to know more about the Dean Village, the best bet is to visit with a tour guide. Local Eyes Tours runs small group walking tours of the Dean Village and Circus Lane, costing £18.
Books set in Edinburgh
If you want to get a good feel for Edinburgh before visiting, it’s worth reading a book or two set there. Options include…
- Muriel Spark’s The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie – an inspirational teacher changes lives with equal parts comedy and tragedy.
- The Heart of Midlothian – arguably Sir Walter Scott’s finest work.
- Ian Rankin’s Rebus books – gripping, grouchy detective novels.
- Irvine Welsh’s Trainspotting series – for the city’s gritty side.
- David Nicholls’ One Day – an innovative and emotive romance, tracked by the same date each year.
The links above are to Amazon. You can probably get them all cheaper at World of Books, which is where I buy most of my books.
More Scotland travel tips
Other Scotland articles on Planet Whitley include:
- National Museum of Scotland review: Which bit to visit first?
- How to spend a perfect day in Edinburgh.
- How to get into Edinburgh Castle when the tickets have sold out.
- The best things to do near Edinburgh Castle.
- Are there any direct flights from Edinburgh to Oslo?
If you’re looking for Edinburgh tours, activities and experiences, there’s a massive selection here.
Disclosure: There are affiliate links within this article. If you buy a product after clicking through on these links, I will earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
