Essen in Germany is rarely on the tourist map, but fans of industrial heritage should have it near the top of their list.
What makes Essen unique?
For a lot of people, Essen is the largest German city they’ve never heard of. That’s partly because it’s not the most obvious tourist destination in the world, and partly because it’s subsumed as part of the industrial Ruhrgebeit conurbation.
Those expecting belching smokestacks are going to be pleasantly surprised, though. Essen’s conversion from coal to culture has been dramatic, and it doesn’t feel like it has taken the depressing kicking that post-industrial cities have undergone elsewhere. There’s now an unsentimental but genial vibe that sums up modern day, successful Germany – but Essen also has one site that, even by World Heritage standards, is something truly extraordinary.
Essen hotel recommendations
The Essenerhof Hotel looks grand and historic from the outside – the building dates back to 1883 – but it’s blandly contemporary and agreeably solid inside.
Refreshingly different is the Art Hotel Körschen, which dishes out free welcome drinks and umbrellas, then has an endearingly all-over-the-place variety of themed rooms, ranging from Spain to Harley Davidsons. The first floor is devoted to the Beatles, and you’ll likely find guitars and vinyl records mounted on the walls, plus pics of the Fab Four.
A tour through Essen’s highlights
The massive Museum Folkwang is home to a substantial collection of 19th and 20th century art, including works by Gauguin, Van Gogh and Renoir. But frankly, it’s industry rather than art you’ve come to Essen for, so hop on the 107 tram to the extraordinary, World Heritage-listed Zollverein complex.
Once the largest coal mining facility in the world, it is now brimming with arts organisations, workshops and events spaces. The spoil heap has been turned into a greened-over sculpture park, while the coking plant has a big wheel and swimming pool in summer, then an ice rink in winter.
The main shaft is arguably the pinnacle of the New Objectivity architectural style, while the former coal-washing facility is now home to the Ruhr Museum.
This is spread over several levels, taking in the geological history that laid the vast coal beds, the industrial revolution population boom and how the region has pivoted to higher education and more technologically advanced work.
Inside the old boilerhouse of the Zollverein complex is the Red Dot Design Museum, which has most visitors mentally saying: “Want one,” as they wander round. It gathers the best in design from around the world, whether garden equipment, technical gadgetry, office chairs or silicone wound dressings. There’s little in the way of interpretation, but the That Looks Cool factor is off the scale – especially when it’s all displayed around the hulking boilerhouse machinery that has been left in-situ.
At the southern end of the city, the Botanischer Garten Grugapark is where locals escape to for a bit of fresh air and greenery. The greenhouses do the tropical plants, while the other gardens are neatly split up by geographic region, so you can be looking at Alpine flora one minute and strolling through wetland willows the next.
Attractions near Essen
Essen shouldn’t just be treated as a city – it’s also a logical hub for exploring the whole Ruhr conurbation. Use it as a base, and the industrial heritage theme can be expanded upon in several rather cool sites. These include the Gasometer in Oberhausen, where 360 degree art exhibitions in a 117 metre tall gas cylinder, and the Landschaftspark Duisburg Nord – a former power plant turned giant playground with scuba diving, rock climbing and light shows.
The German Football Museum in Dortmund is also a short train hop away.
Where to eat in Essen
The city centre feels a little dead at night, and there’s much more life to the south along Rüttenscheider Strasse. There are several good dining options here, including the city’s only Michelin-starred joint – Die Schote. With a weird cave painting-esque art installation on the ceiling and diamante drapes around the bar, it eschews the usual stuffy fine dining look.
Don’t expect a hearty feed – this is showy small plates stuff, with a strong emphasis on the vegetables.
Much more down to earth is Habibiz, a lovely little hang-out with shelves of herbs, stickers saying “make falafel not war” and tasty shawarma plates.
Shopping in Essen
The pedestrianised city centre is packed with shops, albeit without many intriguing specialities. From late November to late December, these car-free streets fill up with 250-odd chintzy wooden stalls selling food, crafts and woolly jumpers for the Christmas market.
Big shopping sprees are best done at either end of the centre. Kaufhof near the station is the classic department store, while the relatively new Limbecker Platz mall has just under 170 shops, and looks like a pulsating, barnacle-covered cuttlefish.
More Germany travel
Other Germany travel stories on Planet Whitley include:
- Does the Berlin to Munich train make for a realistic day trip?
- The best time to visit the DDR Museum in Berlin.
- A Bonn city guide for first time visitors.
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