Lisbon’s metro stations, museums and public spaces have transformed azulejos into a celebration of Portugal’s artistic heritage and modern creativity.
First impressions at Oriente station
A whim takes over on the train from the airport. Oriente station looks so bright, and downright fascinating, that it’s worth getting out way before the right stop.
The station is awash in coloured tiles. On them, weird, long-necked alien figures play the drums, cartoon pirates swashbuckle and coral polyps dominate space-like starry backgrounds.
Why book a visit to Lisbon’s National Tile Museum?
- Discover Portugal’s artistic heritage: Explore centuries of stunning azulejos, from Moorish patterns to modern masterpieces.
- Enjoy access to a historic convent: Wander through the beautiful Madre de Deus Convent, home to one of Lisbon’s most atmospheric cloisters.
- Admire vast tile panels: See the detailed 23-metre-long Lisbon cityscape made entirely from tiles in the 18th century.
- Learn about craftsmanship: Understand the intricate techniques behind traditional Portuguese tile-making through engaging exhibits.
- Take your time exploring: Stroll through at your own pace with an open-ended ticket valid for the day of your visit.
How Lisbon’s metro became an art gallery
The idea to turn a public transport hub into an art gallery came when the stations of the red line were built, just before Lisbon hosted Expo 98. At Oriente, artists from five continents were brought in and given a section of wall to work their magic on. There’s a very vague maritime theme running through, but it’s a gloriously jarring mish-mash of styles.
The one constant is the material the works are displayed on. Nowhere does tile art like Portugal, and the Metro’s commitment to showcasing the best from modern artists offers a counterpoint to the ubiquitous geometric shapes found all over Lisbon.
The Museu Nacional do Azulejo and the meaning of azulejos
The difference between tile art in Portugal and that elsewhere is explained at the Museu Nacional do Azulejo. In the rest of the world, tiles are used as decoration to perk up a building – but in Portugal they’re used as a construction material. Entire walls will be covered in the painted azulejos, rather than carefully-selected patches. And thus the term azulejo has a much stronger meaning than the rough translation of ‘tile art’.
It also explains why some of the more spectacular pieces inside the museum seem to have bits missing. They have come to the museum from churches and houses all over the country, and the absent sections are usually where a window or door originally was.
5 great things to do in Lisbon 🇵🇹
- 🏰 Combine nearby highlights on a small group tour – to Sintra, Pena Palace and Cascais.
- 🍷 Eat your way through lesser-visited neighbourhoods – on a food and wine tour.
- 🛺 Get a local’s eye view of Lisbon – on a tuk-tuk tour.
- 🥐 Take a bakery masterclass – and make your own pastel de nata.
- ⛵ Enjoy wine at sunset – on a river sailing cruise.
The history and artistry of azulejos
The history of the art form – it was introduced by Arabs in the Middle Ages – and techniques for making the tiles are covered, but it is the in-situ works that are truly spectacular. The museum is inside an old convent complex, and the central church is a masterpiece. The blue-and-white azulejos spread across the walls, telling the life stories of various saints in the way friezes would do elsewhere. The detail is worth getting lost in – lions prowl behind St Francis of Assisi, Moses’ followers carry sheep over their shoulders.
Modern twists in Lisbon’s metro art
But until the Metro stations gave azulejos a new lease of life, they were regarded as somewhat dowdy and old-fashioned. Now you can’t commute without seeing inventive twists on the old ways. At Cais do Sodré station, giant Alice In Wonderland-esque rabbits seem to race across the tunnel walls. At Restauradores, swirling renditions of cityscapes from Madrid to New York dominate. At Alameda, tales of Portugal’s famous seafarers play out.
Azulejos beyond the metro
The resurgence of tile art is no longer just an underground thing, however. Outside of the subways, the walls of public parks are decorated with scenes of children dancing or phoenixes rising from flames. And the biggest vindication comes in the city’s new Beer Museum. The huge bar area wasn’t seen as being complete without azulejos, so Júlio Pomar was commissioned to put together a work of galloping surreality. Rabbits, watermelons, tubas and smiling parrots merge into a playful whole – the perfect accompaniment to a night on the tiles.
Visitor information for Lisbon’s azulejo attractions
| Top locations to see azulejos | Oriente metro station, Cais do Sodré, Restauradores, Alameda, and Museu Nacional do Azulejo |
| Museu Nacional do Azulejo address | Rua da Madre de Deus 4, 1900-312 Lisbon, Portugal |
| Opening hours | Tuesday to Sunday, 10am–6pm (closed Mondays) |
| Admission | General admission €10 |
More Lisbon travel
Other Lisbon travel articles on Planet Whitley include:
- A guide to Lisbon’s Belem neighbourhood.
- 5 recommendations to make your Lisbon break better.
- Visiting Museu Coleção Berardo, Lisbon: practical guide for first-time visitors.
- Top tips for visiting the Oceanário de Lisboa.
- Visiting the Jerónimos Monastery for the first time.
