Soft hills, green lakes and an absence of spectacle define Mljet island, a place that quietly resists trends and expectations. Visiting Mljet National Park is less about ticking sights off a list and more about slowing down and letting the island set the tempo.
First impressions of Mljet island
Mljet is not inspiring. The hillside track climbs past what look like the remnants of wells, meandering up to a lookout over an unusually green valley that humans don’t seem to have bothered venturing into. The just-right September sun slow cooks as the chorus of cicadas work up their Helicopter On The Verge Of Breaking Down symphony. It provides no great call to action; just a desire to slow down, wear a simple smile and gently amble.
Mljet island and the absence of trendiness
Mljet is not cool. Or hip. Or hot. The portly Italian mammas teetering towards the water’s edge in their unflattering bikinis will not make it into any promotional brochures. Nor will their greying colleagues trundling round the edge of the lake in the sort of neither-here-nor-there half-hearted outdoorsy clothes you might buy in Marks and Spencer. But the mammas enjoy their splash, occasionally tickled by tiny fish, and the walkers enjoy the scenic views of the lake on one side and haphazard limestone boulders on the other.
Why book the Mljet National Park & 3 Islands boat tour from Dubrovnik?
- Full-day Adriatic island adventure: Sail to several southern Dalmatian islands and scenic coastal spots on a guided day trip from Dubrovnik.
- Swim at Odysseus Cave: Stop at this dramatic sea cave with crystal-clear water — perfect for a refreshing dip.
- Explore Mljet National Park: Spend time in one of Croatia’s most beautiful parks with salt lakes and lush scenery.
- Visit quiet island beaches: Relax at Saplunara Beach and wander the town of Lopud, ideal for tranquillity and natural beauty.
- Snorkelling, kayaking and nature stops: Equipment and safety gear are provided, with plenty of opportunities for water-based fun.
History on Mljet island
Mljet is not new. There are Roman traces – a wall or two from an old villa-cum-palace remain near the National Park ticket hut at Polače. There’s a Benedictine monastery from the 12th century on an islet in the middle of the lake. You can row over to it if you like. Or you can just take a picture of the boats lining up prettily on the jetty then go for a swim.
Tourism on Mljet island
Mljet is not undiscovered. The ferries have been dropping day-trippers off at Polače harbour from Dubrovnik for years. They don’t come in their hordes, and they don’t all charge around the same route led by a guide holding an umbrella. They just line up at the information centre to ask for a map, with each one patiently being pointed to the National Park ticket hut 50 metres away.
Once they have a map in hand, they scurry away in different directions to see what they can see. Some walk, some hire bikes, some opt for the kayaks and paddle around the little off-shore islets. The exploration is squirrel-like; furtive snuffling around, and never bold.
Art and style on Mljet island
Mljet is not arty. Style doesn’t seem to matter. If there’s an enterprising lady with a roadside stall, she’ll be selling pouches of lavender rather than handmade jewellery or ceramics. The day someone spray paints a mural on the side of an occasionally crumbling stone wall, they’ll be driven off the island.
Food and drink on Mljet island
Mljet is not foodie. The establishments lining the waterfront at Polače don’t veer too far from the template. Grilled meat, grilled fish, pizza, pasta and maybe some fresh juice. But they all have wooden terraces with cane roofs overhanging the water.
After a day’s mooch around the island, they suddenly seem very appealing. An hour’s sit down, a late lunch and a cold beer or two before the 4pm ferry departs? Sorry Heston, your molecular faffing about can wait for another day.
Wine and agriculture on Mljet island
Mljet is not a wine hotspot. The odd token, flag-flying vineyard cuts a rude swathe through an otherwise completely forested hillside. They’re scruffy things, vines sprawling free rather than meticulously hemmed into neat rows. During harvest, two men in white hats will stoically plod round, picking the grapes by hand. Viticulture technology is something to be suspicious of.
Five great Dubrovnik experiences
- 🌊 See the Kravice waterfalls, Mostar and Pocitelj on a day trip to Bosnia.
- 🎬 Let a guide show you the Game of Thrones filming locations around Dubrovnik on a walking tour.
- 🛥️ Take a small boat trip to the Blue Cave.
- 🤿 Add snorkelling to a kayaking adventure along the Dubrovnik coastline.
- 🏝️ Enjoy a three island cruise to the Elaphite Islands, including lunch.
Life and time on Mljet island
Mljet is not topical. Things happen, of course. But they happen on a seasonal basis. The big news of 2026 will be very similar to the big news of 2016. Anniversaries of minutiae pass by without fanfare and without the wider world either noticing or caring. The arrival of a TV news crew would be met with quizzical looks and furrowed brows.
Why Mljet island stays with you
Mljet is not interesting. It is not worthy of gasping hyperbole. It is not significant. It is not quirky, action-packed, glamorous or chic. It is not the new anywhere else. It is not, by any conventional standards, worth writing about.
But sometimes the ideal spot doesn’t have to be worth writing about. Just being lovely is enough.
Practical information for visiting Mljet
| Item | Cost / Detail |
|---|---|
| Mljet National Park entry | Seasonal fee — adults pay a standard entrance fee, children and seniors often discounted (prices vary by season, but it’s between €15 and €25). |
| Ferry from Dubrovnik to Polače | Ferries run regularly in summer; prices vary by operator and cabin/seat options — budget for a return ticket per person. |
| Boat to St Mary’s Monastery | Included with park entry or available for a small additional fee at Polače harbour. |
| Bike and kayak hire | Available locally; day rates vary with size/type of equipment but are inexpensive. |
Nearby attractions around Mljet
Veliko and Malo Jezero (Mljet National Park lakes)
These two saltwater lakes sit at the heart of Mljet National Park and are the main focus for most visitors. A flat loop path runs around the shoreline, making it ideal for walking or cycling, while the warm, calm water is popular for swimming and kayaking.
St Mary’s Benedictine monastery
Located on a small islet in Veliko Jezero, this 12th-century monastery is reached by a short boat crossing included with the national park ticket. Many visitors choose to view it from the shore rather than visit inside, combining the stop with a swim nearby.
Roman Palace at Polače
The remains of a late Roman palace line the waterfront at Polače harbour, just a short walk from the ferry landing. Stone walls and foundations are clearly visible and give a sense of the island’s long history without requiring a formal visit.
Odysseus Cave
This dramatic sea cave near Babino Polje is linked to the legend of Odysseus being shipwrecked on Mljet. It can be reached by boat or kayak, or on foot followed by a swim through the narrow entrance in calm conditions.
Pomena village
Pomena is one of the main entry points to Mljet National Park and a good base for bike hire, kayak rentals and boat trips. The small harbour is lined with low-key cafés and restaurants overlooking the water.
Saplunara beach
On the eastern end of Mljet, Saplunara is one of the island’s few sandy beaches. Sheltered by pine forest, it offers a contrast to the rocky swimming spots found elsewhere on the island.
Frequently asked questions
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| How do I get to Mljet from Dubrovnik? | Passenger ferries and catamarans run from Dubrovnik to Polače and Sobra during the main season; booking in advance is recommended. |
| Do I need to pay to enter Mljet National Park? | Yes — there is a €15/ €25, seasonally-dependent entrance fee for Mljet National Park that helps maintain trails, lakes and historical sites. Children and seniors have reduced rates. |
| Can I visit St Mary’s Monastery on the lake? | Yes — a short boat ride from Veliko Jezero takes you to the Benedictine monastery islet; often the boat trip is included with park entry. |
| Is Mljet suitable for day trips? | Absolutely — many visitors take the ferry for a day visit from Dubrovnik and explore the lakes, trails and coastline before returning in the late afternoon. |
| Is Mljet good for outdoor activities? | Yes — cycling, kayaking, swimming and relaxed walking are among the most popular activities in Mljet National Park. |
Disclosure: This guide contains affiliate links. Book through them, and I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
More Dubrovnik travel
Other Dubrovnik travel articles on Planet Whitley include:
- 7 Dubrovnik travel tips to vastly improve your visit.
- The Neum Corridor: How Bosnia ended up with a coastline.
- 8 Dubrovnik must-dos for first time visitors.
- Guide to the Mount Srd cable car in Dubrovnik.
