The striking thing about the room fit for a queen is that, well, it doesn’t seem fit for a queen. The embroidered silk panel above the bed is the only nod to royal decadence. Otherwise, everything seems rather austere – a few sentimental personal possessions are tucked away amongst a near total lack of frippery. And the narrow single bed seems borderline uncomfortable.
Yet for a long time, this was Queen Elizabeth II’s favourite place.
History and overview of the Royal Yacht Britannia
In April 1953, shortly after taking the throne, Queen Elizabeth II launched the Royal Yacht Britannia into the River Clyde. In the next 44 years, it would travel over a million miles, docking in 135 countries and often carrying up to 45 members of the Royal household. It became a floating court, both part of state visit pomp and ceremony and a place of escape for the Royal family. The Queen is on record as saying the Britannia was the one place she could truly relax.
After the Britannia’s retirement in 1997, it was refitted to become one of Scotland‘s top tourist attractions and permanently moored in Leith, Edinburgh’s port suburb.
Five great things to do while you’re in Edinburgh
Discover the Old Town’s underground vaults on a walking tour.
- Follow the Da Vinci Code on a Rosslyn Chapel day tour.
- Learn dozens of stories on a guided walk of the Royal Mile and Old Town.
- Explore the best places to eat in Edinburgh on a food tour.
- Let an expert guide take you around Edinburgh’s Harry Potter locations.
Design and daily life aboard the Royal Yacht Britannia
At least part of the attraction of going round is seeing how the other half live. But as architect Sir Hugh Casson said: “Simplicity was the key. The overall idea was to give the impression of a country house at sea.”
The Queen played an active role in this, turning down the initial designs for the interiors as they were too fussy. The result is a remarkably calm, almost plain floating home – albeit with a grand dining room that could seat 56, where it took three hours to lay out the glass and china with ruler-precision measurements.
Life below decks on the Royal Yacht Britannia
But it’s the idiosyncrasies that are fascinating. Britannia was the only ship in the Navy where sailors were called by their first name, and shouting was forbidden in order to preserve the tranquillity. The crew developed a special system of hand signals instead.
The sailors didn’t wear caps either, which meant they were technically out of uniform and the Royals didn’t have to constantly return salutes.
Crew spaces and quirky stories from the Royal Yacht Britannia
In fact, the crew’s quarters are more interesting than those the royals stayed in. The admiral had his own cabin where he would often dine alone, allowing the officers to unwind without the boss looking over them.
Those officers would often hang out in the wardroom anteroom, which was their main recreational space and had a gentleman’s club vibe. It also has a stuffed wombat wedged on top of the blades of the ceiling fan.
Apparently, the wombat was given by a lady-in-waiting, and the officers devised a game of “wombat tennis” in which the poor thing would be thrown up to the fan, then batted across the room from wherever it ended up.
The Royal Marines band aboard the Royal Yacht Britannia
As for the Royal Marines band, well they had to double up duties. One ended up as ship’s butcher, another sorted out the mail – and they had to find somewhere to practice every day out of royal earshot. And when you see their cramped dorm-style bunks, you realise that the Queen’s bedroom wasn’t quite so Spartan after all…
Books set in Edinburgh
If you want to get a good feel for Edinburgh before visiting, it’s worth reading a book or two set there. Options include…
- Muriel Spark’s The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie – an inspirational teacher changes lives with equal parts comedy and tragedy.
- The Heart of Midlothian – arguably Sir Walter Scott’s finest work.
- Ian Rankin’s Rebus books – gripping, grouchy detective novels.
- Irvine Welsh’s Trainspotting series – for the city’s gritty side.
- David Nicholls’ One Day – an innovative and emotive romance, tracked by the same date each year.
The links above are to Amazon. You can probably get them all cheaper at World of Books, which is where I buy most of my books.
Royal Yacht Britannia opening hours
The Royal Yacht Britannia opening hours vary seasonally, but it is generally open daily from 9.30am between April and October, then 10am the rest of the year. Last entry is usually between 3.00pm and 4.00pm depending on the time of year. Check exact times on the attraction’s website.
Royal Yacht Britannia ticket prices
Standard adult tickets cost £21. Concession tickets are £16, while children aged 5–17 cost £10.50. Under-5s enter free.
Royal Yacht Britannia accessibility
The Royal Yacht Britannia is highly accessible, with lifts to all main decks and accessible toilets available throughout the attraction.
Practical visitor information
| How much are Royal Yacht Britannia tickets? | Adults £21; Concessions £16; Children 5–17 £10.50; Under-5s free. |
| What are the opening hours? | Open daily from 9.30am or 10am, depending on season; last entry varies seasonally between 3.00pm and 4.00pm. |
| How long does a visit take? | Most visitors spend 1.5 to 2 hours exploring the yacht. |
| Is the Royal Yacht Britannia accessible? | Yes. Lifts serve the main decks and accessible toilets are available. |
| Where is the Royal Yacht Britannia? | It is permanently moored in Leith, Edinburgh, next to the Ocean Terminal shopping centre. |
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More Edinburgh travel
Other Edinburgh travel articles on Planet Whitley include:
- Guides to Mons Meg and the One O’Clock Gun at Edinburgh Castle.
- Review of the Edinburgh Literary Pub Tour.
- The 8 best attractions and experiences in Edinburgh.
- How to get to the National Monument of Scotland on Calton Hill.
- St Giles’ Cathedral: A visitor guide.
