A laid-back surf town on Nicaragua’s Pacific coast, San Juan del Sur is the kind of place where hammocks, seafood restaurants and sunset swims easily fill a few slow, restorative days.
Arriving in San Juan del Sur
“Who wants beer? It’s OK if I ask the driver to make a beer stop, right? No-one should have to do a two hour transfer without beer.”
The New Yorkers, despite having arrived on a red eye flight, are keen to get started.
It is 10.30am, and initial doubts about San Juan del Sur begin to grow. Before arriving, the only real information was that it sits in Nicaragua, on the Pacific Ocean, and is popular with surfers.
That description suggested the possibility of a heavily backpacker-dominated beach stop. Hearing people discussing getting drunk before midday on an airport transfer did little to calm that suspicion.
A beer stop on the airport transfer
But then something unexpected happened. When the vehicle pulled in for the beer stop, a sudden dose of carefree travel attitude kicked in.
Inside the petrol station, a few bottles were purchased. The others had a point. A two-hour airport transfer does feel significantly improved with a beer in hand.
What San Juan del Sur is really like
It soon becomes clear that San Juan del Sur is a remarkably relaxed beach town.
The beach itself is not particularly spectacular. It is brown, slightly scrappy and functional. But the fish restaurants that line the waterfront more than compensate.
Fresh seafood, sea breezes and sunset views make for a surprisingly enjoyable combination.
Things to do in San Juan del Sur
San Juan del Sur is not a place packed with obvious activities, particularly for solo travellers.
Popular excursions such as booze cruises or turtle-watching tours normally require a minimum number of participants before they run.
Yet that limitation can be part of the charm.
After two exhausting weeks travelling around Guatemala and Honduras, a slower pace becomes exactly what is needed.
The ideal schedule becomes wonderfully simple: hammock with a book – pool – back to the hammock – a swim in the sea – dinner at a restaurant.
When too much local cash changes the plan
Then comes a small but important mistake.
In Nicaragua, it is easy to pay for many things in US dollars. There were already plenty available for the rest of the trip.
But for smaller purchases, using the local currency – the Nicaraguan córdoba – is easier. The plan was simply to withdraw about £40 from a cash machine.
The beers, however, had clearly taken effect.
With people waiting behind in the queue, mental arithmetic became unreliable. Ten thousand córdobas seemed about right.
It was not about right.
Spending money in Nicaragua
Instead of withdrawing the equivalent of £40, the machine dispensed around £245 worth of córdobas.
When accommodation and flights are already paid for, spending that much in a week in Nicaragua becomes surprisingly difficult.
Food and drink are very inexpensive.
Embracing the laid-back lifestyle
Having far more local currency than necessary produces a strangely liberating effect.
Prices stop being converted into pounds. The most expensive option on the menu suddenly looks appealing. Cocktails replace beer simply because they can.
Once that mindset takes hold, many travel anxieties disappear.
Being firmly on the Gringo trail is not always a bad thing. Nothing feels particularly difficult. Conversations with travellers from around the world become entertainment in themselves.
Gentle wanders through friendly streets followed by another swim in the sea become the perfect way to reset after weeks of intense travel.
Why San Juan del Sur works as a travel reset
Travelling does not always have to be ambitious, educational or demanding.
Sometimes the best approach is simply to slow down for a couple of days.
In San Juan del Sur, that might mean doing very little at all – stretching out in a hammock, ordering seafood by the beach, and letting time drift past.
Nearby attractions near San Juan del Sur
- Christ of the Mercy: A huge hilltop statue overlooking San Juan del Sur, offering sweeping views across the bay.
- Playa Maderas: One of the best nearby surfing beaches, with stronger waves and a more natural setting than the town beach.
- Playa Hermosa: A quieter stretch of coastline known for its long sandy beach and occasional turtle nesting.
- Ometepe Island: A dramatic island formed by twin volcanoes in Lake Nicaragua, reachable by ferry from nearby ports.
- Granada: A colourful colonial city about three hours away, known for its architecture, churches and lakeside setting.
San Juan del Sur visitor information
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| Where is San Juan del Sur? | San Juan del Sur is a coastal town in south-western Nicaragua, located on the Pacific Ocean near the border with Costa Rica. |
| Is San Juan del Sur good for surfing? | Yes. Several nearby beaches such as Playa Maderas offer strong Pacific waves that attract surfers from around the world. |
| Is the beach in San Juan del Sur good? | The main town beach is pleasant but not spectacular. Many visitors prefer nearby beaches for swimming or surfing. |
| What is San Juan del Sur known for? | San Juan del Sur is known for its relaxed atmosphere, surf culture, seafood restaurants and backpacker nightlife. |
| How do you get to San Juan del Sur? | Most travellers arrive via Managua airport and take a road transfer of roughly two hours to reach the town. |
