Why visit St Lucia?
The signs are warning about something rather unusual. In St Lucia, South Africa, it’s not sharp bends or speed bumps you have to look out for – it’s hippos. At the bottom of a gorgeously languid estuary system on KwaZulu-Natal’s Indian Ocean coast, St Lucia initially appears to be a happy-go-lucky holiday town. But amongst the sunshine, bars, restaurants and boat trips is the ever-present menace of portly, grumpy beasts.
The town was built on a hippo pathway – every evening they leave the water to go and graze in grassy fields – and the hippos have simply refused to acknowledge that they should shift route. So if walking or driving after dark, there’s a strong chance that you might encounter one of the “Townies” – as the family that treats St Lucia as its territory is known.
- Reserve your spot on a St Lucia hippo-watching cruise by booking in advance.
Hippo encounters
As the hippo-watching cruises during the day spell out, you really don’t want to get too close to one of the Townies. Hippos are responsible for more deaths in Africa every year than any other mammal, which is pretty good going considering they’re vegetarian.
Skipper Stacey Farrell, at the helm of the Shoreline Boat and Walking Safaris vessel, says it’s their temperament that’s the problem. “They are extremely territorial,” she says. “If we were another hippo, they’d be attacking and killing it.”
We’re very lucky that the three families nearest the town are tolerant of boats. This allows us to get remarkably close. Elsewhere in Africa – and, indeed, further down the estuary – a hippo’s reflex reaction is to attack boats. They are very grouchy, very aggressive and instinctively opt for fight rather than flight.
Why book the Hippo & Croc Boat Cruise in St Lucia?
- ⏱ Tour lasts about 2 hours cruising through the St Lucia Estuary in iSimangaliso Wetlands Park
- 🚐 Includes convenient hotel pickup and drop-off in St Lucia
- 🐘 Spot hippos, crocodiles, abundant birdlife, and lush wetland scenery along the way
- ☕ Enjoy hot drinks, fruit, water, and snacks provided on board
- 👥 Small-group format with a maximum of 15 people for a more personal experience
- ⭐ Highly rated: average of 4.7 out of 5 from travellers for wildlife sightings and guide quality
- ✅ Mobile ticket included; free cancellation up to 24 hours before the tour
Wildlife in the estuary
It’s instructive that there are also Nile crocodiles and bull sharks in the estuary – we see them sunning themselves on the banks and flitting across the water respectively. But they give the hippos a wide berth. Even the great predators don’t want to take on the bad-tempered big fellas.
As the boat sidles up, there’s a furore. One’s probably trodden on another’s foot, and there’s a cacophony of grunting going on. They sound like a revving motorcycle, but with heavy reverb added in post-production.
Behaviour and habits
They’re in the water because they can’t sweat. Spending the day belly down in the shallows, therefore, is an essential coping mechanism under the hot African sun.
But that doesn’t stop the little hippos from playing. One leaps out of the water, doing its best impression of a flying fish. It’s very young, and remarkably cute. Or at least it is until I ask what would happen if I jumped in the water with it.
Without the slightest hesitation, the answer comes back. “Its mum would kill you,” says Stacey. Ah. I think it might be better to drive to the restaurant this evening…
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