Surfing hundreds of miles inland in Montreal, Canada? Learn about the river surfing community on the St Lawrence River and how to ride the permanent wave, La Vague à Guy.
Getting to La Vague à Guy
Paddling out, it quickly becomes clear that this is no normal morning surf. For a start, the ocean is a long, long way away. Getting into the water has consisted of scrambling down a muddy bank, then pushing off into the not-exactly-toasty St Lawrence River.
There awaits La Vague à Guy, a quirk of the way the water goes over the rocks and river bed beneath it. It creates a permanent wave, between half a metre and a metre high. That might not sound much, but it’s the novice’s training ground amongst Montreal’s small-but-growing river surfing community.
It’s the baby step, but it’s by no means easy to get the hang of – even for people who normally have no difficulty getting up on the board and riding the surf.
The difference between ocean surfing and river surfing
The fundamental difference is that on the ocean, the swell comes towards you, and you leap on board. River surfing at La Vague à Guy, you drift in the current towards the wave, then leap up, hopefully at the sweet spot where you’ll be able to stay up.
Watching from the bank, this looks relatively easy. A bearded chap in a necessarily thick wetsuit floats down, elegantly hops up onto his board, then spends a minute or so weaving back and forth along the wave.
Trying to catch a wave on the St Lawrence River
Attempting it myself, directed to aim for the section of the wave slightly to right of the centre, it’s not quite so effortless. There’s a little bit of a sucking in effect, making for a sudden increase in speed. Before I know it, I’m zipping downstream, long past the wave. From there, it’s a scramble to get out of the current and head over to the relatively placid stretch by the bank.
This is perhaps the effect of being up all night with food poisoning the night before, but it feels rather like desperately trying to escape a shipwreck. Once safely back on land, a few minutes are spent wheezing and calming down.
The second run through doesn’t go too much better. It’s like trying to start a car with an incredibly specific bite point. But the instructors with surf tour company KSF seem to have the knack, somehow managing to lie down at the foot of the wave, attempting to catch the hapless beginners as they fly past.
The International River Surfing Championships
Quebec‘s surfers have been trying to catch the rapids in the St Lawrence – there are, bigger higher waves to graduate to once La Vague à Guy has been conquered – since around 2003. And it’s not just Montreal where it’s catching on. Munich, where the sport arguably began, has taken to hosting international river surfing championships.
While the scenes might not rival those in California, Bali or the Australian coast, there are enough surfers improvising inland to make small, dedicated communities. On my course, at least a couple of the people trying it out are locals who fancy joining the club. As I eventually flake on the bank, knackered and happy to call it quits, they power on. After a couple of hours, they finally start hitting that bite point, and slowly climb to their feet. Hundreds of miles inland, new surfers are born.
Things to do near La Vague à Guy in Montreal
La Vague à Guy sits along the Lachine Canal, an area known for walking routes, waterside views and easy access to several of Montréal’s best known neighbourhoods. These nearby attractions are easy to combine with time by the canal.
Lachine Canal
Running directly past La Vague à Guy, the canal is one of the city’s most popular outdoor spaces. The towpath is used for walking and cycling, and the waterway offers a clear link to Montréal’s industrial past.
Atwater Market
A short walk along the canal, Atwater Market is one of Montréal’s most famous food markets. Its indoor and outdoor stalls focus on local produce, bakeries and speciality foods.
Saint Henri neighbourhood
Close to the canal, Saint Henri has a strong local character, with independent cafés, shops and former industrial buildings that have been repurposed in recent years.
Musée des ondes Émile Berliner
Located nearby, this small museum explores the history of sound recording and broadcasting in Canada, with exhibits linked to the area’s industrial heritage.
Parc Sir George Étienne Cartier
A short distance west along the canal, this park offers open green space, views over the water and access to the riverfront, providing a quieter contrast to the busier market area.
More Montreal travel ideas
Other Montreal travel articles on Planet Whitley include:
- Five great places to stay in Vieux Montreal.
- Three great places to stay in Montreal’s Centre-Ville.
- Why Pointe-a-Calliere is the best museum in Vieux Montreal.
- Why Montreal is Canada’s best city.
For a selection of Montreal tours, experiences and activities, pick your favourites here.
