Swimming with the Baird Bay sea lions is one of the best experiences I’ve ever had in Australia. Here’s why it’s worth going to the western shore of South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula to do it.
Meeting Beryl and the Baird Bay sea lions
It’s Beryl’s eyes that do it. If she asked for a pony, no-one would be able to refuse her. But she’s not pleading for anything – just curious.
Beryl is about three years old, and lives with around 140 friends and family on Jones Island off the western coast of South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula. She’s a rarity, too – there are only an estimated 10,000 Australian sea lions in the wild. And those in Baird Bay are almost certainly the friendliest.
This is largely down to Alan Payne, who has spent three decades bonding with the Jones Island colony. Alan moved to Baird Bay from Western Australia in 1992, started off doing fishing tours and gradually worked out that guests were more enthralled by the sea lions than the fish.
How the sea lion experience began
When he started swimming with them, they were a little stand-offish – apparently driving the boat within 100 metres of the beach would spook them a little. Now they merrily play around next to him, and whoever the Baird Bay Experience has brought along for the ride.
On a cloudy day, though, it takes a while for the sea lions to get moving. A couple of pups splash around in the sea caves, an enormous bull just sits motionless on the rocks, and a pair of adolescent males play fight on the beach.
Once the sun breaks through, however, several head to their favourite spot – a natural pool sheltered by rocks from the swells at the entrance to the bay. Perhaps more importantly, it’s also sheltered from the greater, whiter marine animals that would happily tuck into a sea lion, and make snorkelling a considerably more perilous pursuit for admiring humans.
Swimming with the Baird Bay sea lions
Often such animal encounters – whether whale watching or swimming with dolphins – can be fleetingly underwhelming. The target of the affectionate cooing just goes about its business and swims off. But what makes being in the water with these sea lions so extraordinary is their playfulness and inquisitiveness.
They glide on up, almost to the point where their noses are nudging the snorkel mask. They swim underneath and back out on the other side. And they don’t half pose for the camera.
Their speed and agility is remarkable. They twist and turn in the water like dismounting gymnasts. They change angle and direction with astonishing dexterity. And they do backflips, breaching out of the water, to show off.
Personalities and connections
But they’re also keen to learn new moves. After a while in the water with them, it becomes apparent that the sea lions aren’t just tolerating their guests – they’re enjoying copying them. Perform some clumsy attempt at aquabatics, and chances are one of the youngsters will attempt to mimic. This becomes particularly apparent when Alan gets in, and several of them flock to him.
Beryl is the nosiest of them all, although she hasn’t always been sweetness and light. “We called her Beryl the feral,” says Alan. “She used to chew the living daylights out of me.”
Her personality has changed in recent months, to the point where she’s the most reliably friendly of the colony. “She’s a very special character,” says Alan, with an obvious fondness.
Why Baird Bay is a unique experience
This is the key to why the whole experience wouldn’t work as well elsewhere. The whole colony has grown up with Alan and his ever-changing cast of crew mates. There’s a mutual trust and enjoyment that can’t just be whipped up in a click of the fingers.
On the way over to see the dolphins that hang out on the other side of the bay, the beaming faces of the passengers are matched by that of the skipper. “After 25 years or more of doing this,” he says, “I still get a buzz out of it.”
Useful visitor information
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| What are the Baird Bay sea lion tour ticket prices? | Tours with Baird Bay Experience cost A$325 for adults and A$220 for children, including equipment. |
| What are the tour times and opening hours? | Swimming ours generally run daily from September to May, departing in the morning at 9am. Exact schedules depend on weather and sea conditions. |
| Is parking available at Baird Bay? | Yes, there is free parking available at the Baird Bay Experience departure point. |
| Where does the tour depart from? | Tours depart from Baird Bay, located approximately 50km south of Streaky Bay on South Australia’s Eyre Peninsula. |
| How can I book the Baird Bay sea lion experience? | Reserve your visit in advance through the official Baird Bay Experience website to secure your preferred date. |
