From Edinburgh Castle to world-class Michelin-starred restaurants, this comprehensive guide reveals the must-see attractions and hidden gems in Scotland‘s historic capital.
Edinburgh Castle: Scotland’s crown jewel
At the top of the processionary route through the Old Town known as the Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle sits loftily on an easily-defended rocky outcrop. Hence the Scottish Royals decided to make it their home in the 11th century.
Inside, the Romanesque St Margaret’s Chapel is the oldest building in the city. The Royal Apartments are open for envious gawking and the Honours of Scotland – the Scottish equivalent of the Crown Jewels – are on display.
Edinburgh Castle tickets sell out, so book in advance – or take a tour. It’s open on Mondays and there are plenty of things to do nearby.

Scotch Whisky Experience: A toast to Scotland’s spirit
A short amble down the Royal Mile brings you to the Scotch Whisky Experience. This attraction celebrates Scotland’s globe-conquering spirit of choice.
It’s home to the world’s largest scotch whisky collection, some of which you can sample on tasting tours. But the main exhibitions do a good job on whisky’s origins, making and cultural impact, with plenty of interactivity.
Five great things to do while you’re in Edinburgh
Discover the Old Town’s underground vaults on a walking tour.
- Follow the Da Vinci Code on a Rosslyn Chapel day tour.
- Learn dozens of stories on a guided walk of the Royal Mile and Old Town.
- Explore the best places to eat in Edinburgh on a food tour.
- Let an expert guide take you around Edinburgh’s Harry Potter locations.
Real Mary King’s Close: Underground Edinburgh’s dark past
Real Mary King’s Close is one of several alleyways off the Royal Mile. Many of which have been covered over to the point where they’re subterranean.
This one has been opened up to visitors, many of whom have signed up to the tour for the ghost stories. Far more fascinating, however, are the tales of disease and grim living conditions faced by the 16th and 17th century inhabitants.
Books set in Edinburgh
If you want to get a good feel for Edinburgh before visiting, it’s worth reading a book or two set there. Options include…
- Muriel Spark’s The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie – an inspirational teacher changes lives with equal parts comedy and tragedy.
- The Heart of Midlothian – arguably Sir Walter Scott’s finest work.
- Ian Rankin’s Rebus books – gripping, grouchy detective novels.
- Irvine Welsh’s Trainspotting series – for the city’s gritty side.
- David Nicholls’ One Day – an innovative and emotive romance, tracked by the same date each year.
The links above are to Amazon. You can probably get them all cheaper at World of Books, which is where I buy most of my books.
Calton Hill: Athens of the North views
Calton Hill at the eastern edge of the New Town has tremendous 360-degree views out over the city and the Firth of Forth. But the real reason to puff and pant your way to the top is the collection of somewhat absurd classical Greek style monuments such as the National Monument of Scotland.
Many of them are half-finished but they led to Edinburgh getting its somewhat incongruous ‘Athens of the North’ nickname. The panoramic views across Scotland’s capital make the climb worthwhile for photographers and sightseers alike.
Dean Village: Edinburgh’s hidden gem walk
In the New Town, between the grand, near-uniform Georgian terraces, is a deliciously tranquil gully. Through this runs the Water of Leith.
The walking track along it passes the odd folly, and heads towards the Dean Village. Once a milling settlement, it’s now home to some of the city’s most photogenic housing.
It feels like dipping into a country hamlet right in the heart of Edinburgh.
Royal Yacht Britannia: Royal maritime history
Edinburgh’s port, Leith, plays home to the Royal Yacht Britannia. For 43 years, it transported Queen Elizabeth II and her family around the world, clocking up a whopping 696 foreign visits.
It’s now open to visitors as a museum. Whilst discovering how the yacht was crewed and run is mildly interesting, the really fascinating aspect is getting to learn the Queen’s surprisingly simple tastes.
Opulence is conspicuous by its absence.
The Stand: Edinburgh’s premier comedy venue
Edinburgh becomes the world comedy capital during the Fringe in August, but there are plenty of laughs to be had for the rest of the year too. The Stand has a reputation as the sort of comedy club performers love.
Crowds tend to be knowledgeable, appreciative and open-minded. Given that a disproportionate number of comics live in Edinburgh year-round, this makes for consistently high-quality line-ups.
The Kitchin: Michelin-starred Scottish cuisine
Chef Tom Kitchin, who regularly appears on TV cookery show judging panels, was just 29 years old when he received his first Michelin star. He was the youngest person to have one at the time.
His Leith restaurant – The Kitchin – puts French twists on the dishes. But the aim is to show off the finest in Scottish cuisine, with ingredients such as Orkney scallops, Highland venison and North Sea halibut.
More Edinburgh travel stories
Other Edinburgh travel articles on Planet Whitley include:
- National Museum of Scotland review: Which bit to visit first?
- How to spend a perfect day in Edinburgh.
- Review of the Edinburgh Literary Pub Tour.
- Are there any direct flights from Edinburgh to Oslo?
