Why visit St Giles’? A spiritual landmark on the Royal Mile
St Giles’ Cathedral, formally known as the High Kirk of Edinburgh, stands as the spiritual and historical heart of Scotland’s capital. Situated midway along the Royal Mile, the main artery connecting Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace, the cathedral’s history is intimately woven into the fabric of the Scottish nation.
It is an active, vibrant place of worship operated by the Church of Scotland, offering visitors an unparalleled opportunity to explore nine centuries of Scottish political and religious memory. The structure is an architectural palimpsest, containing remnants of medieval faith, the pulpit of the Reformation, and modern memorials that speak to national healing.
The Crown Steeple: Defining Edinburgh’s Historic Skyline
The most immediate and striking feature of the High Kirk is its Crown Steeple. Rising above the closes of the Old Town, this filigreed, open-crown design is an emblem of endurance and national identity, defining the city’s historic silhouette.
Completed in 1495, the Crown Steeple is a masterpiece of late-Gothic engineering. The distinctive design—an open ‘crown’ of intersecting ribs that lift skyward—was created to honor King James IV. Its symbolism is profound: the twelve flying buttresses are said to represent the apostles, and the structure is topped by a cross, signifying divine authority.
Five great things to do while you’re in Edinburgh
Discover the Old Town’s underground vaults on a walking tour.
- Follow the Da Vinci Code on a Rosslyn Chapel day tour.
- Learn dozens of stories on a guided walk of the Royal Mile and Old Town.
- Explore the best places to eat in Edinburgh on a food tour.
- Let an expert guide take you around Edinburgh’s Harry Potter locations.
Inside the Kirk: Must-See Features and Memorials
Once inside, visitors encounter a space rich with monumental art and deeply significant historical narratives.
The Magnificent Thistle Chapel
Located at the southeastern corner of the Kirk, the Thistle Chapel is a magnificent example of late-Gothic revival architecture. Constructed in 1911, it is the official chapel for The Most Ancient and Most Noble Order of the Thistle, Scotland’s premier chivalric order.
The interior space is intensely detailed, featuring the Knights’ stalls lining the sides, capped by lavishly carved canopies. Above these rise the helms and crests of the current knights. The Sovereign’s stall dominates the west end, serving as the opulent focus of the chapel design. The effect is greatly enhanced by heraldic and figurative stained glass in the windows.
Reconciliation in Stone: Montrose and Argyll
St Giles’ houses one of Scotland’s most profound historical narratives in the form of two adjacent memorials dedicated to the country’s most famous 17th-century rivals: James Graham, 1st Marquis of Montrose, and Archibald, 1st Marquis of Argyll.
Montrose, the romantic royalist hero, was executed in 1650 and his remains were later recovered and buried in the Chapman Aisle. His handsome, seventeenth-century style monument was erected in 1886 after a suggestion by Queen Victoria. The monument is a powerful symbol honoring the Royalist past.
This commemoration was balanced by the subsequent recognition of his enemy, Archibald, 1st Marquis of Argyll, the leader of the Covenanters. Argyll’s memorial was unveiled in 1895, positioning St Giles’ as a “temple of reconciliation” that integrates both sides of Scotland’s Civil Wars into a unified national history.
Books set in Edinburgh
If you want to get a good feel for Edinburgh before visiting, it’s worth reading a book or two set there. Options include…
- Muriel Spark’s The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie – an inspirational teacher changes lives with equal parts comedy and tragedy.
- The Heart of Midlothian – arguably Sir Walter Scott’s finest work.
- Ian Rankin’s Rebus books – gripping, grouchy detective novels.
- Irvine Welsh’s Trainspotting series – for the city’s gritty side.
- David Nicholls’ One Day – an innovative and emotive romance, tracked by the same date each year.
The links above are to Amazon. You can probably get them all cheaper at World of Books, which is where I buy most of my books.
The Robert Burns Memorial Window
A notable modern cultural addition is the Robert Burns memorial stained-glass window, installed in 1985. The window, designed by Icelandic artist Leifur Breidfjörd, celebrates major themes of Burns’ work—nature, humanity, and love—with the topmost tracery depicting the sun blossoming “like a red, red rose”.
Condensed History: A Brief Context for Your Visit
The history of St Giles’ Cathedral spans approximately 900 years.
- Medieval Roots: A church was traditionally founded on this site around 1124.
- The Reformation: The church became the undisputed centre of the Scottish Reformation following the appointment of John Knox as minister in the summer of 1560. Knox, a formidable figure, established Presbyterianism in Scotland and used the pulpit of St Giles’ as his primary platform until his death in 1572.
- The Riot of 1637: A great moment of populist defiance occurred on July 23, 1637, when King Charles I attempted to impose a new prayer book. Legend states a local woman named Jenny Geddes threw her stool at the preacher, initiating a massive civil disturbance. This act of defiance was the spark that ignited the Bishops’ Wars. Her memory is preserved within the Kirk by a 1992 bronze sculpture representing her three-legged stool.
- A Divided and Unified Church: In the aftermath of the Reformation, the building was pragmatically partitioned by internal walls into four distinct and separate churches, a physical division that persisted for nearly 200 years. Lord Provost William Chambers oversaw a major restoration in the 1870s and 1880s, which included the crucial removal of these internal partitioning walls, unifying the building’s interior for the first time in centuries.
Plan Your Visit: St Giles’ Cathedral Practical Information
St Giles’ Cathedral Opening Hours and Admission
St Giles’ Cathedral is run by donations, with a suggested donation of £6 per person. Admission is otherwise free.
The standard opening hours are:
| Day | Opening Time | Closing Time |
|---|---|---|
| Monday – Friday | 10:00 am | 6:00 pm |
| Saturday | 9:00 am | 5:00 pm |
| Sunday | 1:00 pm | 5:00 pm |
The Kirk is closed on December 25th, December 26th, January 1st, and January 2nd. Visitors should check the official website for variations due to special events or services.
Guided Tours and Audio Options
Visitors can explore the Cathedral through multiple channels:
- Guided Walking Tours: Offered daily at 10:30 am and 2:30 pm. These should ideally be pre-booked via the official website.
- Audio Tour: A comprehensive self-guided option that reveals secrets and stories about St Giles’ rich history and architectural features.
Accessibility and Directions (Getting There)
St Giles’ is committed to accessibility, with facilities available for visitors with mobility requirements.
- Wheelchair Access: Provided via a ramp located at the west door of the Kirk (the side facing the Castle), which is the main walkway used by all visitors.
- Public Transport: While no bus stops directly outside, the nearest bus stop is the Victoria Street stop on George IV Bridge. Visitors using the bus or tram to Princes Street must anticipate an uphill walk to reach the Cathedral.
- Parking: Some parking spaces are available directly in front of the main entrance in West Parliament Square. These spaces are shared and should be requested ahead of time via email or phone. Two dedicated disabled parking bays for Blue Badge holders are available to the rear of the building, adjacent to the Mercat Cross in Parliament Square.
Visitor Etiquette and Photography Tips
As a functioning place of worship, visitors are requested to dress modestly. Photography is permitted inside the Cathedral, but all photography must be respectful of the surroundings and any services underway.
More Edinburgh travel
Other Edinburgh travel articles on Planet Whitley include:
- How to spend a perfect day in Edinburgh.
- The best things to do near Edinburgh Castle.
- Is Edinburgh Castle open on Mondays?
- Guides to Mons Meg and the One O’Clock Gun at Edinburgh Castle.
- How to get to the National Monument of Scotland on Calton Hill.
