Canoeing along the Berlin Wall

Canoe along Berlin’s Landwehrkanal and River Spree to gain a new perspective on the Berlin Wall. See where the water was part of the deadly “death strip.”

Changes along the River Spree

The River Spree acts as a barometer for what’s happening to Berlin. Every time I visit, the buildings alongside it look shinier, newer and more futuristic. Expensive-looking new build houses have boats outside, media companies have moved into purpose-built offices and the graffiti-strewn semi-ruined squats are slowly giving way as the years pass.

A huge aluminium art installation – dubbed Molecule Man – rises proudly from the water, as a symbol of the new Berlin. But take a quick left down the Landwehrkanal, and it quickly becomes about the past again. This section of the canal divides the districts of Kreuzberg – which was formerly in West Berlin – and Treptow, which was in the East.

The path of the Berlin Wall

Canoeing along it serves to change perceptions of what the Berlin Wall was.

The popular image – a single wall dividing the democratic west and communist east – is surprisingly far from the truth. Elsewhere in the city, particularly along Bernauerstrasse, this is clearly shown to be an oversimplification. In reality, there were two walls – one built roughly along the boundary of east and west, and another built a little further inside the eastern sector. The East German authorities didn’t want people getting to the actual border, so a ‘death strip’ was created between the two walls. Get over the first wall, and into it, and you’d have either dogs or machine guns set on you.

But in key places, this set up was never going to work.

One of them was underground, where a complex metro system had already been established been established before the division of the city. Although there were rare outbreaks of pragmatism – trains running through the eastern segment between two western districts were allowed through as long as they didn’t stop – many tunnels and station entrances were simply barricaded.

The Landwehrkanal in the Death Strip

The other unconventional frontier was the water. The technical boundary between Treptow and Kreuzberg was the bank on the Kreuzberg side. Obviously, it wasn’t possible for the East German authorities to build a wall there, so a wall was built around the park on the eastern bank, and the Landwehrkanal effectively became the death strip.

The tragedy of the Landwehrkanal

Between 1961 and 1989, entering by canoe would be a fairly certain way of getting shot. Now it’s a curiosity; paddling along the Berlin Wall puts the Cold War city into a whole new perspective.

It was only once on the western bank that potential escapees were safe, but the open water made for a tempting escape path.

Paddling along, Backstage Tourism’s guide tells the tragic story of two children who swam for the shore. They were shot by guards in the towers who, in the darkness, had no way of knowing how old the victims were.

Berlin’s invisible barrier

Now, though, two venues on either side tell the tale of what has happened in Berlin. We pull our canoes over in a traditional riverside beer garden on the western shore. It is relaxed and feels like an idyllic time warp. On the eastern side, however, is an ugly tower. It is, apparently, a popular venue for DJs playing large scale raves.

The physical barrier may have gone, but the barrier in attitude still stands.

Things to do near the Landwehrkanal in Berlin

The Landwehrkanal runs through Kreuzberg and Neukölln, with a mix of waterside paths, markets and cultural sights along its banks. Several well known Berlin attractions are within easy reach of the canal.

Maybachufer Turkish Market
Along the canal in Neukölln, this open air market is held several days a week and is known for its food stalls, produce and street atmosphere. It is one of the liveliest stretches of the Landwehrkanal.

Jewish Museum Berlin
A short walk from the canal, this major museum explores Jewish life and history in Germany. The building itself is one of Berlin’s most striking pieces of contemporary architecture.

Kreuzberg neighbourhood
Much of the canal runs through Kreuzberg, an area associated with alternative culture, street art and independent cafés. Walking along the canal gives a good sense of the district’s character.

Görlitzer Park
Close to the eastern end of the Landwehrkanal, this large park is a popular local gathering place, particularly in warmer months, and offers open green space near the water.

Checkpoint Charlie
Within walking distance of the canal’s western stretches, this historic Cold War crossing point provides context for Berlin’s divided past and is often combined with nearby museums and exhibitions.

More Berlin travel

Berlin canoe tours are one of many Berlin activities and experiences available. Choose from some of the best here.

Other Berlin articles on Planet Whitley include:

• The best time to visit the DDR Museum in Berlin.
• How to get cheap Hamburg to Berlin train tickets.
• Taking on Berlin’s Bearpit Karaoke.
• How the Berlin Wall inspired a boom of creativity.
• How the Ampelmann became a beloved symbol of Berlin.
• Guide to Berlin Cathedral ticket prices.

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