The sandstone ruins of the Cape St George Lighthouse in Booderee National Park are peaceful today, but they hide a grim past. Built in the wrong place in 1860, the lighthouse brought shipwrecks and family tragedies.
The sandstone blocks of the Cape St George Lighthouse tumble over each other in a higgledy-piggledy shambles. As the early morning light hits, there’s a familiar vibe – like wandering alone round the ruins of a small Angkorian temple.
But the coastal location adds to the drama. Come in winter and migrating humpback whales are regularly seen from the clifftop.
Why is the Cape St George Lighthouse cursed?
These days, the Cape St George Lighthouse is a beautiful, evocative and peaceful site inside the Booderee National Park, Jervis Bay. But this is perhaps Australia’s most cursed lighthouse, and its story is one of calamitous error and personal tragedy.
For a start, the Cape St George Lighthouse is in the wrong place. It was built in 1860, and designed by colonial architect Alexander Dawson, who is best known for his work on the Sydney Observatory.
A comedy of errors: why the lighthouse was useless
The planning stage was a comedy of errors. The Pilots Board wasn’t given a say on the suitability of the site for ships, Dawson’s map of the proposed location was less than comprehensive, and it seems a lazy contractor took advantage of that.
The lighthouse was built about 4km north of where it was supposed to be, probably because it was easier to get the stone there. The end result was a lighthouse that was pretty much useless.
It couldn’t be seen from the northern approach, and could barely be seen from the southern approach either.
Point Perpendicular and the shipwrecks of Jervis Bay
It took 39 years for this mistake to be rectified. A new lighthouse was built at Point Perpendicular on Jervis Bay’s northern head in 1899.
But that was too late for several ships. The Department of Agriculture, Water and the Environment lists thirteen ships that were wrecked around Jervis Bay in that period. Other sources estimate that significantly more met their end.
Why was the Cape St George Lighthouse demolished?
But even when the new, usefully placed lighthouse had kicked into gear, there was a problem. There were now two lighthouses very close to each other.
One of them marked the entrance to the bay, and the other could easily be mistaken for it. When the moonlight hit the sandstone, the Cape St George Lighthouse was an outright hazard, potentially luring ships onto the rocks.
Eventually, the decision was made to take the tower down with explosives, creating the ruins we see today.
Five great things to do in Jervis Bay
- 🐬 Meet Jervis Bay’s resident bottlenose dolphins – on a dolphin cruise.
- 🐋 On a whale-watching cruise – see the humpback whales on their annual migration.
- 🌊 Admire giant sea cliffs and spot wildlife – on a Jervis Bay Passage cruise.
- 🌌 Take an astronomer-guided stargazing tour – and explore the night sky from the beach.
- 🛶 See wildlife and glide along calm waters – on a half day sea kayaking tour.
Life at the lighthouse: a supply nightmare
But the Cape St George Lighthouse wasn’t just a curse for passing ships – the inhabitants had a rough time of it too. For a start, getting supplies to the lighthouse was a nightmare.
The nearest place anyone could safely land a boat was Murrays Beach, 4km away. Horses were required to lug supplies from the beach, and there was not enough grass for the horses.
The deaths at the Cape St George Lighthouse
More disturbingly, a run of grave misfortune befell those who lived by the Cape St George Lighthouse. Interpretive signs mention a few of the unlucky ones, kicking off with Isabella Jane Lee.
She was the daughter of the principal lightkeeper, and in 1867 succumbed to typhus fever. It wouldn’t be the last death here.
13-year-old George Gibson died from pleurisy in 1882, while 11-year-old Florence Bailey was taken by typhoid in 1885.
Accidents at the Cape St George Lighthouse
The accidents are more macabre than the deaths from disease, however. Florence Bailey’s father, Edward, was washed off the rocks while fishing and eaten by sharks as his son looked on.
Francis Henry Hammer, thought to be nine or ten at the time, lost his footing and toppled off the cliff while pushing rocks around for entertainment. Assistant lightkeeper William Markham, meanwhile, got kicked in the head by a horse and died before he could get to Nowra Hospital.
Harriet Parker: the most tragic death
Perhaps most tragic of all was the death of Harriet Parker in 1887. The assistant lightkeeper’s daughter was shot dead by her friend, the main lightkeeper’s daughter.
It’s believed that the latter tripped while playing around with a loaded gun.
Visiting the Cape St George Lighthouse ruins today
Visit the ruins these days, and the Cape St George Lighthouse seems serene. But the grim past suggests that this lighthouse cost more lives than it saved.
The Cape St George Lighthouse is at the eastern end of the Booderee National Park in the Jervis Bay Territory. A one-day pass for the national park costs $20 per vehicle.
Where to stay near the Cape St George Lighthouse
Unpowered camping sites within the national park cost from $30 a night. Otherwise, stay in nearby Huskisson.
Cape St George Lighthouse: key visitor information
Fees and passes can change. Check the Parks Australia website for Booderee before you go.
| Question | Information |
|---|---|
| What are the Cape St George Lighthouse opening hours? | Booderee National Park is open all year, and no separate opening hours are listed for the lighthouse ruins. |
| How much does it cost to visit the Cape St George Lighthouse? | You need a park pass for Booderee National Park. A one-day vehicle pass costs $20, or $10 for concession holders. A one-year pass costs $80, and a two-year pass costs $110. Walkers and cyclists enter free. |
| Where do you buy a Booderee National Park pass? | Buy online in advance. The entry station has been closed, so passes are also sold at the Visitor Centre and from a mobile van at the Jervis Bay Supermarket. Display your printed pass on the dashboard with the QR code visible. |
| Is there parking at the Cape St George Lighthouse? | Yes. A car park serves the ruins, with composting toilets. |
| How far is the walk to the Cape St George Lighthouse ruins? | About 0.8km return on a gravel path, taking around 15 minutes. It is a very easy walk, and information boards explain the ruins along the way. |
| Is the road to the Cape St George Lighthouse sealed? | No. The last stretch is unsealed, but it is usually fine for regular cars. Drive carefully, because the road has potholes. |
| How far is the Cape St George Lighthouse from Sydney and Canberra? | Booderee National Park is about three hours’ drive from Sydney and 2.5 hours from Canberra. The lighthouse is a little over 10 minutes by car from Jervis Bay Village. |
| When can you see whales from the Cape St George Lighthouse? | Winter is the best time to see migrating humpback whales from the clifftop. The lighthouse is the best place in the park to watch the migration. |
| How tall was the Cape St George Lighthouse? | The sandstone tower was 18.5 metres (61 feet) high, with eight rooms at ground level. |
| Why was the Cape St George Lighthouse demolished? | Even unlit, it confused ships on moonlit nights. The Navy used the tower for target practice from 1917 to 1922, and it was destroyed. |
| Are dogs allowed at the Cape St George Lighthouse? | No. No animals may be brought into Booderee National Park. |
| Is there bird flu at Booderee National Park? | Yes. H5 avian influenza has been detected in the park. Do not touch sick or dead birds or other animals. Report them to a ranger or call the Emergency Animal Disease Hotline on 1800 675 888. |
| How much does camping cost at Booderee National Park? | A standard campsite for up to five people at Green Patch or Bristol Point costs $35 off-peak, $70 in the shoulder season and $100 at peak times. At Cave Beach it costs $30, $55 and $80. All sites are unpowered. Park entry is included. |
| How do you book a campsite at Booderee? | Book online through Parks Australia. Sites are allocated on a first come, first served basis, so book early. |
Things to do near the Cape St George Lighthouse
Green Patch – This camping area has amenities and free electric barbecues, and a five-minute walk leads to a beach for swimming. Harriet Parker’s grave is here.
Murrays Beach – The nearest landing place for the lighthouse’s supplies, it is just a short drive from the Visitor Centre.
Booderee Botanic Gardens – These are Australia’s only Aboriginal-owned and managed botanic gardens.
Steamers Beach – This beach is reached by Stoney Creek Road, the same road that leads to the lighthouse.
Point Perpendicular Lighthouse – The lighthouse that replaced Cape St George stands on Jervis Bay’s northern head, and access depends on the navy firing range on the Beecroft Peninsula.
