A kayak tour on the Chicago River brings a closeness to the water – and views of some of the most spectacular architecture on earth.
Kayaking around Goose Island
It’s not the Chicago I was expecting. The only company comes in the form of geese, desperately flapping as they bid to take flight. Around are old iron rail bridges, industrial buildings and the occasional new addition such as the Wrigley’s chewing gum research and development centre.
We’re paddling round the back of the man-made Goose Island, one of the many alterations that has been made to the Chicago River over the years. The most audacious of these is making the river flow in the opposite direction using dams, deepening and locks. And the industrial area we’re kayaking through on the north arm is the reason why it was done.
Reversing the flow of the Chicago River
Things are vastly improved these days, but in the past anything and everything was dumped in the water. That eventually flowed towards Lake Michigan, the source of Chicago’s drinking water. So the city took on the project of making the water flow from Lake Michigan, down the south arm of the river and into a canal. The water eventually ends up in the Mississippi, something that newly downstream St Louis was understandably not best pleased about.
“They bottled the water up and sent it back to us as Budweiser,” jokes our guide, David.
Merchandise Mart and the Intercontinental Hotel
When the industrial stretch of the river gives way to the residential and business stretch, the entrance is astonishing. Turning the corner to be hit with the Chicago skyline is a humbling experience. From a kayak, you’re about as low as you can possibly be. There’s also space around you, allowing you to look properly rather than just craning your neck upwards.
It’s not just the height of the buildings, however. Some cover staggering amounts of floor space. The Merchandise Mart fills two city blocks on its own – it’s the largest commercial building on earth.
But it’s the little details that are endlessly fascinating. David keeps pointing out surprises. The Intercontinental Hotel, for example, has a landing pad for Zeppelins on its roof. It hasn’t seen much use recently.
Carbon and Carbide Building and Marina City
I’d not noticed before, but the Carbon and Carbide Building is designed to look like a popping champagne bottle, with its golden top and dribbles of gold down the side.
And then there’s Marina City, which I’ve long found Chicago’s oddest and most bizarrely entrancing building. The two circular towers look like corn cobs – intentionally, as it turns out. Until now, however, I never knew the story behind them.
Many of the city’s tall buildings were designed by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, who churned out the tall, sleek glass and steel affairs we most readily associate with skyscrapers today. Apparently his protégé, Bertrand Goldberg, got so fed up of following his master’s formula that he lashed out and did something completely different. And you don’t get much more different than giant corn cobs.
Booking a Chicago kayak tour
The Chicago River kayaking tours are run by Kayak Chicago, which also offers kayak rentals.
For more Chicago activity and experience ideas, head here.
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