Discovering the rebirth of Karlín: Prague’s riverside comeback story

Karlín, once forgotten and flood-damaged, has reinvented itself as one of Prague’s most creative neighbourhoods. Between riverside bars, cultural spaces, and bold architecture, this district now mixes grit with charm — and plenty of local soul.

A riverside park full of quirks

The park is a scrappy, scrubby affair, albeit with the occasional bizarre sculpture, such as the tower formed from upturned bathtubs. A channel of the Vltava River, chivvied off by a small islet, flows to one side, and a series of grandstanding modern buildings line the other. The office complexes of River City Prague are showpiece stone and glass affairs; the residential blocks next to them somewhat carrot-like with their deep orange walls giving way to ostentatious green roof gardens.

Riverside energy at Přístav 18600

The riverside stretch of Karlín feels like it should be the sort of soulless dockland development that cities all over the world desperately try to pitch as cool. But here, the loud guitar crunch of a stoner rock band acts as a siren call.

It turns out to be the nightly turn at Přístav 18600, a delightfully out-of-place scrapper of an open-air bar, where beer is served out of a shipping container, there’s a big queue for hotdogs and tyre swings are strung up from the trees. In the playground, a young couple sit with beer in hand on concrete pipes that, for some unfathomable reason, have had periscopes attached to them. Dogs and pushchairs are in liberal supply, a sign of what Karlín is becoming.

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From flood devastation to revival

It was never quite edgy, more just deflated and forgotten. And when the great floods of 2002 caused carnage, it should have been the last great boot in the side.

Instead, it kickstarted a rejuvenation. River City is the most obvious example of this, but old industrial sites got a makeover too. Forum Karlín, a former steam boiler factory turned concert venue, is the most dramatically impressive.

Karlín’s architectural charm

But there was also renewed appreciation for what Karlín already had. The location, next to the New Town and the river, helps. The streets are lined with proud-but-elegant Art Nouveau buildings, the decoration always an adornment rather than a gaudy flourish. The Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius in lawn-covered Karlínské Square is an absolute stunner.

Cafés, culture and community at Kasárna Karlín

And so the cafés and bistros and wine bars started moving in. But the neighbourhood is still more soul than scene-y, and nowhere is this more apparent than Kasárna Karlín.

This gigantic former barracks has been transformed into an adorable cultural hub, with galleries and studios in the upper tiers and the giant courtyard home to outdoor movie screenings, photography exhibitions, a beach volleyball court and some tremendously weird art installations (including one of a podgy unicorn on a rusty plinth).

This place symbolises the battle for Karlín’s direction. The community fought to save Kasárna Karlín from the developers, and it reopened in 2025 after being forced to close for a year in 2024.

Beach volleyball at Kasárna Karlin in Prague, Czechia.
Beach volleyball at Kasárna Karlin in Prague, Czechia. Photo by David Whitley.

Useful information for visiting Karlín, Prague

Where is Karlín located?Karlín lies just east of Prague’s city centre, between the Vltava River and Žižkov. It’s easily accessible via the Křižíkova metro station (Line B).
What are the main attractions in Karlín?Highlights include Kasárna Karlín, Forum Karlín, Church of Sts. Cyril and Methodius, and the riverside bar Přístav 18600.
When is the best time to visit?Summer and early autumn are ideal for enjoying Karlín’s outdoor bars and cultural events.
Is Kasárna Karlín open to the public?Yes, it reopened in 2025 and hosts exhibitions, concerts and film screenings. Entry is usually free, though some events are ticketed.

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