Discover Josefov, Prague’s Jewish Quarter. Explore its synagogues, including the Moorish Spanish Synagogue, and the Pinkas Synagogue, a Holocaust memorial.
The unique design of the Spanish Synagogue
It doesn’t look much like a synagogue. The Moorish arches and keyhole windows feel like they belong in one of those Andalucian mosques that later became a church. The Spanish Synagogue feels completely out of place, but also in keeping with what the city does best. “Prague is an encyclopaedia of European architectural styles, even through to the 1970s brutalist hotels,” says Bonita Rhoads on Insight Cities’ Stories of Jewish Prague tour. “And this district proves this.”
The evolution of Josefov from ghetto to city district
To the untrained eye, Josefov seamlessly blends into the Old Town. There are no longer walls hiving off the former Jewish Ghetto. But the walls haven’t been there for a long time. They were removed in the mid-19th century, as the dishevelled laneways were replaced by wider, prouder city streets. Prague’s Jews were properly integrated into city life rather than confined, vaguely tolerated and eyed with suspicion.
Why book the Stories of Jewish Prague walking tour?
- Explore Prague’s historic Jewish Quarter with a knowledgeable local guide who shares centuries of history and personal stories.
- Visit important landmarks such as the Old Jewish Cemetery, the Jewish Town Hall, and several beautifully preserved synagogues.
- Learn about Jewish life in Prague before, during and after World War II in a small-group setting.
- Enjoy an engaging three-hour walking tour that brings the area’s legends and real-life tales to life.
- Includes admission tickets, professional guide, and a convenient central meeting point near the Jewish Museum Information Centre.
The legacy of the Jewish Museum and Nazi occupation
But the Jewish burial hall, cemetery and several synagogues remain, and for bleak reasons. While systematically wiping out the Jewish population, the Nazis decided to keep Josefov as a museum to an extinct race. In doing so, they brought in Judaica from across Europe. Much of it – more than 100,000 books, silver treasures, embossed Torah mantles and other artefacts – is still there.
There is a museum, too, covering several key buildings. But it’s to a surviving race, of which a small community lives in Prague today. The hugely atmospheric, 13th century Old-New Synagogue is still the main religious centre, but others have been repurposed. Of these, the Pinkas Synagogue provides a thoroughly haunting gut-punch. Its walls are covered with the names of the 77,297 Czech Jews killed in the Holocaust, all listed with date of birth and the last known date they were alive. Upstairs, a room is covered in pictures drawn by children while inside the Terezin Concentration Camp.
Josefov’s transformation and artistic revival
But despite the glut of souvenir stalls pimping tat to the Jewish heritage tourism market and the kosher restaurants, the big surprise of Josefov is how little it feels defined by its previous ghetto status. It provides the most salivatory concentration of Prague art nouveau wonders, with the grand five-story apartment blocks covered in ever more elaborate statues, swirling plant motifs and orientalist fantasies.
Pařížská Street, meanwhile, is the city’s luxury shopping hub and galleries such as Glassimo play host to the sort of top-quality glass art usually reserved for special wedding presents or living room talking points.
Josefov’s complex and compelling story
Visitors come to Josefov for a simple, dark and well-known narrative. But the story is full of complicating tangents.
Five great things to do while you’re in Prague
- Discover Prague’s communist history and nuclear bunkers on a Cold War-themed tour.
- Let a knowledgeable guide explain the highlights on a Prague Castle tour.
- Learn Czechia’s World War II history on a day trip to the Terezin concentration camp.
- Combine Czech beer with some of Prague’s best dining on a food and beer tour.
- Cover more ground in less time on a Prague bike tour.
Useful information for visiting the Jewish Quarter in Prague
| What are the opening hours of the Jewish Museum in Prague? | Open daily from 9am to 4.30pm (winter) and 9am to 7pm (summer). Closed on Saturdays and Jewish holidays. |
| How much are tickets for the Jewish Museum and synagogues? | Combined tickets cost around 600 CZK for adults, covering entry to several synagogues, the cemetery, and exhibitions. Discounts are available for students and children. |
| Where is the Spanish Synagogue located? | Vězeňská 1, Prague 1 – within walking distance of Staroměstská metro station. |
| Is photography allowed inside the synagogues? | Photography requires a special permit, which can be purchased at the museum ticket offices. |
| Are guided tours available? | Yes, guided tours of the Jewish Quarter can be booked through companies such as Insight Cities. |
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More Prague travel
Other Prague travel stories on Planet Whitley include:
- The giant baby statues in Kampa Park.
- A practical guide to the Kafka Museum.
- When to visit the Waldstein Garden in Prague.
- How to get inside the St Wenceslas Chapel in Prague.
- Visitor guide to Vladislav Hall.
