Vinohrady is one of Prague’s most elegant districts — leafy, affluent and full of confident architectural flourish. But beneath the grandeur, it’s also home to independent food spots and creative businesses that keep the area vibrant rather than complacent.
A butcher’s that became a local legend
The eager customer bursts into Mikrofarma, saying: “I had chicken from here two days ago, and it was so delicious, I wonder if you sell it? I was with two guys who are very picky eaters. One said it was the best meat he has had in Prague.”
That’s the sort of unprompted recommendation you want to hear when you sit down to eat. Mikrofarma is an oddity. It started life as a butcher’s shop but also has shelves full of chutneys, pickles and other deli products. More importantly, you can point at any cut of meat, and a chef in the small adjoining kitchen will cook it up for you.
It’s a tiny place, but so are many of the other joints in Vinohrady that defy the Czech pork and dumplings stereotype. Small ramen, pho and craft beer joints have found a home amidst Vinohrady’s more characteristic sea of coffee shops.
Where tradition meets quiet innovation
It’s those sprinkles of innovation, however, that prevent Vinohrady slipping into moneyed-but-idle pastiche. The area was subsumed into Prague in 1922, during a boom period for the city. The upper middle classes chose to live there, and this continued under communist rule when Vinohrady was eyed with suspicion as a bourgeois hotbed.
Walking in from neighbouring districts, the change is immediately obvious. Trees suddenly line the streets, giving them pseudo-boulevard grandeur, and buildings go from mousy affairs given a lick of paint to showily proud. Balconies become bold, jutting statements, and the decorations on the walls and roofs become fiercely competitive.
Why book the Zizkov & Vinohrady Beer Tour?
- 🍺 Taste 1.8 liters of authentic Czech beer across six local pubs (≈ 6 × 0.3 L servings)
- 🥨 Enjoy traditional beer snacks like Utopenec or Hermelin as you sample the local flavours
- 👣 Walk through the historic districts of Žižkov and Vinohrady—some pub-hops, some pass-by landmarks
- 📍 Expert guide (sometimes a brewer or local) shares stories about Czech beer traditions and craft brews
- ✅ Mobile or paper ticket options; small group size ensures personal and immersive experience
Architecture with flair and confidence
Most of these status symbols were built in the late 19th century, and in the Romantic style that pilfered the best bits from trends of centuries gone by. The same block can have elaborate neo-Gothic, neo-Renaissance and Baroque Revival efforts, each fighting for attention with frippery.
None are more brazen than the Vinohrady Theatre, though, which is topped by two angel statues boasting the most extravagant wings. It’s a perfect symbol of the district – a thirst for culture married to a lack of concern about displaying wealth.
Elegant indulgence around every corner
Rich, but broadly tasteful is the vibe, and that also applies to the offering just around the corner. Dolcemente oozes presentational drama – inside, dried hams hang from the ceiling, outside, the door and window arches are outlined with streams of flowers. But its focus is very precise – Italian-style cakes, Porchetta sandwiches and tiramisu or blackberry gelato. Again, it’s a brave concept idea that probably wouldn’t work elsewhere in Prague. But Vinohrady embraces the finer things in life.
Five great things to do while you’re in Prague
- Discover Prague’s communist history and nuclear bunkers on a Cold War-themed tour.
- Let a knowledgeable guide explain the highlights on a Prague Castle tour.
- Learn Czechia’s World War II history on a day trip to the Terezin concentration camp.
- Combine Czech beer with some of Prague’s best dining on a food and beer tour.
- Cover more ground in less time on a Prague bike tour.
Useful information for visiting Vinohrady, Prague
| Where is Vinohrady located? | Vinohrady is just southeast of Prague’s Old Town, bordered by Žižkov and Vršovice. The nearest metro stops are Náměstí Míru and Jiřího z Poděbrad. |
| What are the main attractions? | Key sights include the Vinohrady Theatre, Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord, and Riegrovy Sady park with its city views. |
| Where to eat and drink? | Try Mikrofarma for expertly cooked local meats or Dolcemente for Italian desserts. You’ll also find excellent coffee roasters, wine bars and craft beer pubs throughout the district. |
| When to visit? | Vinohrady is at its best in spring and early autumn, when the leafy boulevards and outdoor cafés are full of life. |
| How to get there? | Take the metro (Line A) to Jiřího z Poděbrad or Náměstí Míru, both within walking distance of Vinohrady’s main attractions. |
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More Prague travel
Other Prague travel articles on Planet Whitley include:
- Exploring the synagogues and history of Josefov – Prague’s Jewish Quarter.
- What to see on the Golden Lane inside Prague Castle.
- Tips for visiting Prague’s Karel Zeman Museum.
- Prague’s Old Town Hall Tower: A visitor guide.
- The thoroughly enjoyable rebirth of the Karlin neighbourhood.
