Faro, Portugal: What to see, do and eat

A chapel made of bones and a birdlife-packed estuary help make Faro more than just a gateway airport to the Algarve.

What makes Faro unique?

The Algarve is often seen as a patchwork of smallness – some pretty ghastly resort towns mixed in with cute fishing villages and other settlements that are little more than a castle. Faro, therefore, offers something that nowhere else in southern Portugal can manage – a proper city, with a life that seems to extend beyond keeping visitors happy. Night-time energy feels organic rather than forced and seasonal; Phoenician and Roman pasts get a chance to shine without being drowned in identikit concrete development.

The beach being on an island well away from the city centre can be off-putting for most, but this is a strong part of what keeps the local feel so unusually dominant for the area.

A walk through Faro’s highlights

Starting on the gorgeous black and white mosaic-tiled pavements around the marina, head into the small-but-cute walled old town. Here the Sé is a squat, doughy-looking thing by cathedral standards from the outside, but an absurd carnival of baroque gilding, carving, lacquering and engraving inside. The short trudge up the tower – only 68 steps – offers the best views of the town and the marshy islands beyond.

The nearby Museu Municipal de Faro is inside a former convent, and the building is arguably more memorable than the displays, although remnants of the Roman history of the Algarve are well preserved and the huge 2nd to 3rd century AD ‘Mosaic of Oceanus’ is fabulous.

Outside the city walls, the Museu Regional do Algarve on Praça da Liberdade has lots of stereotypical ye olde peasant way of life stuff, but the black and white photos of the towns and villages before the tourism boom are wonderful.

Faro’s top attraction

The Igreja de Nossa Senhora de Carmo on Largo do Carmo is a splendidly gaudy church, but it’s the chapel at the back that is truly something different. The bizarre Capela dos Ossos – like the Sedlec Ossuary in Kutna Hora, Czechia, and Capuchin Crypt in Rome, Italy – is made from the bones of thousands of monks. Skulls, knee joints and elbow bones cover the walls and ceiling in what has to be one of the world’s most macabre interior design statements.

Inside the Capela dos Ossos, Faro. Photo by David Whitley.

Boat trips from Faro

The Parque Natural de Ria Formosa, a lagoon-like estuary that divides Faro from the Atlantic Ocean, is a complex network of tidal flat islands and a hugely important wetland for birds. Formosamar is amongst several companies offering boat trips around there to see the storks, spoonbills, egrets and more. The best ones are the two hour nature-focused trips on simple wooden boats, where binoculars are provided for keen birdwatchers.

There are several boat tours that head out through the Parque Natural de Ria Formosa, all offering something slightly different with different journey times. Pick carefully, as some just offer slightly unsatisfying tasters of several spots – such as milling around on a sand island for half an hour without enough time to properly enjoy the beach, or an hour’s lunch break in a pretty enough village with not enough to see.

If it’s just the beach you want, take a €10 ferry ride to Faro Beach (aka Ilha Deserta).

It’s also possible to go snorkelling with seahorses in the Ria Formosa estuary.

Where to eat in Faro

The split-level Adega Nova manages to pull off rustic atmospherics with pots, pans, old clocks and antique pistols all over the walls. Seafood is the main draw.

Where to shop in Faro

The pedestrianised streets in the city centre have a decent smattering of chains, designer outlets and indie shops. Grapheria on Rua de Francisco Gomes offers some gorgeous stationary – particularly pens – for example.

In the old town, there are a few galleries, the most charming of which is the chaotically disorganised Galeria da Sé on rua da Porta Nova, opposite the cathedral. It has no sign on the door, but sells some gorgeous tile art.

Faro hotel recommendations

Right by the marina, the AP Eva Senses is generally regarded as the top choice in town. The rooms are bland, but the lobby goes for all white minimalism, and the 25m by 10m rooftop pool with views out over the Parque Natural de Ria Formosa is a massive drawcard.

The recent refurb at the nearby Hotel Faro has given rooms a crisp, bright look, but the faux wood lino floors give the nagging feeling of being done on the cheap. The rooftop views are marvellous, though, and the free shuttle service to the beach club (and airport afterwards if desired) is a great USP.

The Stay Hotel Faro is a solid three star option – rooms are bigger than they need to be, although costs are kept down by charging per room service.