Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco, California, is touristy as hell, but the sea lions, boat cruises and classic sourdough clam chowder make it thoroughly enjoyable.
The appeal of touristy spots in San Francisco
‘Touristy’ places are often very unfairly maligned. After all, there’s usually a very good reason why tourists flock to them (Hard Rock Cafés being the main inexplicable exception to this general rule). And sometimes it’s better to fight the urge to be cool and just run with the crowd. After all, there are only so many pig blood-splattered poetry cafés in terrifying crime-blighted trendy suburbs that you can go to before you realise that trying to be hip all the time isn’t all that much fun.
First impressions of San Francisco
Our first day in San Francisco should have been a shocker. We’d not had much sleep before heading to the airport and the overly enthusiastic consumption of bucket-sized cocktails had led to sizable hangovers to match stinking colds. Frankly, I’d have been happy to write the day off and just have a big, snotty sleep.
But San Francisco is one of those cities that is instantly likeable. The buildings are a colourful jumble, staggering up and down the hillsides like a merry drunk, and the bay setting makes it considerably more picturesque than most US cities. There’s also an instantly engaging vibe.
Fisherman’s Wharf: the heart of San Francisco tourism
Like all great cities, it has a cast-iron, blatantly obvious tourist trap. And in San Francisco, that tourist trap is Fisherman’s Wharf. It’s a place of souvenir shops, food that’s just about edible and bears little resemblance to the ‘real’ San Fran. Guess where we were staying?
The shameless heart of Fisherman’s Wharf is Pier 39, a large wooden protudence into the bay that has been filled with candy and novelty shops aimed at certain segments of the community (ie. left-handed people, collectors of stained glass and wannabe magicians). On the way up there you’ll be accosted by anything from street entertainers to steel bands. But it’s worth battling through the crowds for, as at the end, there are scores of bad-tempered, honking sea lions to be found.
Pier 39 sea lions and local treats
The sea lions took up semi-permanent residence on the wooden rafts on the outside of Pier 39 after the 1989 earthquake. Nobody has had the heart/ bravery to move them since, and now they sit there all day, fighting and honking at each other like dive bar pugilists.
On the way back down the pier, we take advantage of one of the other gimmicks: clam chowder in a hollowed-out sourdough roll. It’s a little like a bread cauldron, and it’s a winner as far as I’m concerned (even if San Francisco’s foodies may be horrified).
Boat cruises and Golden Gate views
The other key reason to visit Fisherman’s Wharf is that boat cruises leave from there. And whilst it’s again the most touristy option, you can’t come to the Bay Area and not go on a boat. We’re lucky, the sun is out, the sky is blue and the Golden Gate Bridge hasn’t got a patch of fog round it as we sail under. Better still, there’s a bit of chop in the water, so it feels like a bit of an adventure rather than the soft option. The kite surfers wrestling their equipment seem to agree.
I don’t know about you, but wildlife, novelty food and a boat ride is a close approximation to my perfect day.
Embracing the tourist experience
We’ve spent a day being shameless tourists. And you know what? It’s been great. I wouldn’t have changed a thing. Cool can wait for another time.
Visitor information for Fisherman’s Wharf
| Location | Pier 39, Fisherman’s Wharf, San Francisco, California |
| Highlights | Sea lions, souvenir shops, clam chowder in sourdough bread, boat cruises under Golden Gate Bridge |
| Boat cruise operators | Various companies depart from Pier 39; tickets start around $35. See pier39.com |
| Opening hours | Shops and attractions generally open from 10am to 9pm, seven days a week |
| Access & transport | Accessible via F Market streetcars, buses, or by car. Parking available nearby but limited |
More San Francisco travel
Other San Francisco travel articles on Planet Whitley include:
- Review of the Tonga Room tiki bar in San Francisco.
- How much does the San Francisco to Sausalito ferry cost?
- Why the audioguide makes a visit to Alcatraz Island special.
- Planning a visit to the Walt Disney Family Museum in San Francisco.
- What to know before visiting the California Academy of Sciences.
