Guide to Lagos, Portugal: See, do, eat & sleep

Lagos is the historic heart of the Algarve, with a strong line in kayak and boat trips.

What makes Lagos unique?

Southern Portugal is a bit of a balancing act. There are several towns along the Algarve coast, many overdeveloped but with plenty to do, and some quiet but with not much going on.

Lagos certainly falls towards the former, but it doesn’t feel drowned in concrete. Natural good looks help here – the city unfurls along a spectacular stretch of coastline, with several envy-inducing beaches and a photogenic marina.

But history plays a part too – Lagos was arguably the key launchpad for Portugal’s Age of Discovery, and it played a dark role in the trans-Atlantic slave trade as the host of Europe’s first slave market.

Its position is the key, though. As the most westerly of the Central Algarve ultra-touristy towns, it provides a perfect base for exploring the wild, surf-smashed western side of the region.

The streets of Lagos, Portugal. Photo by Vini Andrade on Unsplash

A walk through Lagos’ highlights

Start off at the Marina, then stroll along the river down Avenida dos Descobrimentos, dipping in to take a look at the Museu Municipal. It’s a real old-school hodge-podge of art, archaeology and coins from around the world, but it also allows access to the magnificently OTT Igreja de Santo António – a blizzard of engraving, wood-carving and gilding.

Nearby, the riverside Fortaleza de Ponta de Bandeira is worth clambering to the top of, but the small beach next to it – Praia da Batata – is where the kayak tours around the spectacular coastline leave from. Several companies offer daily tours dipping into the caves and under rock arches towards the rock tower dotted Ponte da Piedade. Prices start at €35.

Numerous boat tour companies offer similar trips – but the kayaks can get into narrower channels and smaller nooks and crannies.

The kayak tours go past two of Lagos’ staggeringly pretty, red cliff-backed beaches – Praia da Dona Ana and Praia do Camilo. But locals tend to prefer the 4km long Meia Praia on the other side of the river, or the much quieter Praia Porto da Mos on the western side of Ponta da Piedade.

Excursions from Lagos

The Algarve’s west coast, with several world class surf beaches, has a totally different vibe to the rest of the region. Lagos is the best hub for accessing said beaches – as well as the Cabo de San Vicente at Portugal’s south-western tip. There’s an end of the world feel as the waves crash into the rocks below the lighthouse.

As for hitting the surf, Praia do Amado has several surf schools, while the Praia da Arrifana has two different types of break. Algarve surfing lessons can be booked online.

Other Lagos tour and activity options include small group wine-tasting tours and pastel de nata baking classes.

Where to eat in Lagos

In the fine tradition of resort towns, Lagos has some absolutely dire dining options – albeit with plenty of good ones sprinkled in. To dodge the worst, stick rigidly to the failsafe rules of not eating anywhere with touts outside, pictures of the food or ‘tourist’ menus.

Restaurante dos Artistas in the city centre looks unpromising from the outside, with a dated sign and inexplicable cartoonish fibre glass snake on the wall. But the food and service is excellent. The seabass, mussels, lentils and peppers is good, but the stellar bargain is the three course tasting menu.

Nearby Mullens is a little more relaxed, with a lovely little garden at the back and an atmospheric, mood-lit main room featuring gigantic barrels and stone walls. Dishes such as the Mozambique-style beef show off Portugal’s colonial past.

Where to shop in Lagos

The standard of shopping isn’t exactly top drawer in Lagos, but there are a couple of decent efforts amongst the deluge of tat. Mediterranea Lifestyle on Rua 25 de Abril has some attractive shoes and bags, metalwork lampholders and colourful ceramics.

Expo at Rua Marques de Pombal, 8, isn’t bad either – everything’s made by local craftspeople and sold as a collective. That encompasses everything from colourful glazed clay lizards to black and white nature photography and bamboo napkin holders.

Lagos hotel recommendations

Right next to the marina, the Marina Club offers suite-style hotel rooms, plus three and four star apartments. The latter are Mediterranean minimalist – bright white furnishing and décor, wooden floors – but with kitchen facilities and large balconies overlooking the agreeably sizeable pool.

The Cascade Wellness and Lifestyle Resort has a huge freeform pool, its own full-size football pitch, courtyards full of exercise bikes and tastefully-decorated rooms with either Asian, South American, African or European themes.