Museo Andes 1972, Montevideo: a small museum with an extraordinary story to tell

The tiny red shoe on display at the Museo Andes 1972 shouldn’t have the impact it does. On October 12th, 1972, Eugenia Dolgay bought a pair of shoes as a gift for her granddaughter when her flight from Montevideo to Santiago made an unscheduled weather stop in the Argentinian city of Mendoza.

Eugenia never made it to Santiago. Neither did the plane. But the shoes did, and for the 16 plane crash survivors, they became a powerful symbol of the “society in the snow” they had created high in the inhospitable, inaccessible Andes. During their 72-day mountain ordeal, anyone leaving on a mission to find help would take one shoe with them, leaving the other shoe with the group huddled around the plane fuselage. The aim, always, was to eventually reunite the pair.

That reunification is a tiny part of a genuinely extraordinary story, which this small museum in the Uruguayan capital tells with significant input from the survivors.

The story of Uruguayan Air Force Flight 571

Uruguayan Air Force Flight 571, carrying a rugby team, family and friends, crashed high in the Andes during the back end of winter. 32 passengers survived the initial crash, but the white plane against the snowy backdrop was almost impossible to find – particularly as the flight was significantly off-course.

Just over a week after the crash, the search was called off. This was the first thing the survivors, who had spent days fashioning a rudimentary radio antenna, heard from the outside world. They were on their own, and they had some horrific decisions to make.

The most gruesome of these, which is underplayed in the museum as it’s understandably not what the survivors wanted to focus on, is the decision to eat the dead. It wasn’t unanimous, but with no other food sources, and temperatures of around minus 25 degrees Celsius, it became the only way to survive.

Survival, ingenuity and the psychology of the Andes crash

Ingenuity also became crucial. Seat covers were turned into sleeping bags, insulation was turned into mittens and metal from the seats was turned into a basic device that converted snow into drinking water.

But it’s the psychological steps taken that end up being more fascinating. There’s writing down everyone’s phone number and discussing which restaurants they’d eat in together once back home. There’s a belt with three extra holes pierced in it, all kept at the same intervals as the original holes, because its owner didn’t want to ruin the belt even though he’d halved in weight. There’s the assignation of roles, and ever-shifting leadership as individual health waxed and waned.

The escape: Roberto Canessa and Fernando Parrado

The escape is as dramatic as the survival. Through timeline-based displays, the museum tells of how Roberto Canessa and Fernando Parrado, on day 62 of the ordeal, set off for the “green valleys of Chile”.

This involved three days taking on what was essentially a 1,000-metre wall, trudging through deep snow. It’d be a tough ask in mountaineering gear – and an astonishing one in normal clothes after two months of near starvation.

But when they got to the top of the wall, there was despair. All that could be seen for miles around were more mountains. They weren’t where they thought they were – it would have been much quicker to go the other way into Argentina. But they resolved to plough on. Eventually, ten days after they left, they encountered a Chilean cattle driver.

Hope, forgiveness and readjustment

What happened after this is a well of human emotions. There’s hope – the other survivors hearing over the radio that their friends had been rescued, and that help was on the way. There’s understanding and forgiveness – the father of one of the dead giving his blessing for what the survivors had done. And there’s readjustment – the difficulties the survivors had returning to normal life afterwards are not glossed over.

The museum tells this incredible tale so much better than Alive, the somewhat cheesy 1993 movie based on it. But like all truly great stories, it’s about so much more than the plot. And even the bit part cameos – the child’s shoes, the belt, the mittens – become thought-provoking symbols of what it means to be human.

Museo Andes 1972: key visitor information

Information sourced from the official Museo Andes 1972 website and verified against current booking platforms. Cash payment on arrival is preferred, though advance online booking is available. Always confirm current opening hours and prices before visiting.

Things to do near Museo Andes 1972, Montevideo

Ciudad Vieja (Old City) – The museum sits at the heart of Montevideo’s historic district, a walkable neighbourhood of 19th-century architecture, independent cafés, art galleries and the Mercado del Puerto nearby.

Mercado del Puerto – A short walk from the museum, this famous iron market is home to a row of parrillas (traditional Uruguayan barbecue restaurants), and is the most celebrated spot in Montevideo for trying a classic Uruguayan asado.

Montevideo waterfront (La Rambla) – The world’s longest waterfront promenade stretches around the city’s bay, offering pleasant walks and views of the Río de la Plata, particularly at sunset.

Plaza Independencia – A short walk from Ciudad Vieja, this central plaza features the mausoleum of Uruguay’s founding hero, José Artigas, and the striking art deco Palacio Salvo.

Museo del Carnaval – Also in Ciudad Vieja, this small museum celebrates Montevideo’s Carnival, widely regarded as the longest in the world, with elaborate costumes, drums and murga music documented throughout.