Segovia has two extraordinary sights in the Alcazar and Roman aqueduct – but it’s a hugely atmospheric city to hang out in, too.
What makes Segovia unique?
Two stellar attractions at either end of the historic centre – the Roman aqueduct and the Disney-esque castle – make Segovia an almost mandatory day trip from Madrid. But it’s a city better soaked up slowly than hared round – and works much better with a night or two’s stay. Segovia is extremely quiet at night, but oozes atmospherics.
It’s almost universally handsome, carrying off a haughty Old Spain splendour amongst winningly decorative facades walls that manage to crumble elegantly..
The city stands proud in a prime position, staring out over the plains with the mountains behind it, and only fleetingly mixes with the modern world. That sense of timewarp is an integral part of the character, though.
A walk through Segovia’s highlights
The number 11 bus from the out-of-centre train station will drop you outside Segovia’s utterly spellbinding Roman aqueduct. It’s both beautiful in its undulating arches and an astonishing piece of engineering. There’s no mortar holding it together – just stone and meticulously applied mathematics.
There’s a gently sloping route up to the historic city from there, but head up the banks of steps instead to see the upper part of the aqueduct. The first in a trail of explanatory signposts marking a trail through the city’s private palaces, show-of-wealth towers and photogenic churches is found there.
Prime amongst these is the bulging, multi-tiered Gothic cathedral.
The Paseo del Salón de Isabel II, meanwhile, is a rather magical terrace, just to the southern side of the old city walls. Towers rise up behind, a gorge runs below, and the newer parts of the city spread out beneath the snow-capped Cordillera Central mountains. Expect plenty of dog-walking locals coming to share the view.
Segovia’s top attraction
Segovia’s castle – the Alcázar – is brimming with fairytale magic. It’s full-on drawbridges, witches hat turrets and teetering on a precipice stuff. Inside, there’s a cold stone harshness to it, but the decoration in some of the rooms is astounding. The main room where models of all Spain’s kings and queens sat in golden thrones just below the ceiling is particularly impressive.
If you think the views from the outside the Alcázar are good, brave the 152 spiralling steps up the main tower. From up top, the city unveils itself majestically – the cathedral jutting up highest to take pride of place with the mountain backdrop.
Segovia tours and experiences
Other things to do in Segovia include private walking tours, hot air balloon flights and a craft winery visit.
Where to eat in Segovia
Segovia’s food tends towards the hearty, with super-tender roast (preferably suckling) meats the speciality. Casa Duque is about as fiercely traditional as you can get in this respect, and the bow-tied waiters have been serving up suckling spring lamb since 1895. It’s has to be shared by two people.
A variation on the theme comes at El Fogon Sefardi, where the suckling lamb comes with honey, plums and prunes in a tagine..
Where to shop in Segovia
The major route through the historic city (going under various interconnecting street names) has plenty of shops along it, but there’s nothing to get hugely excited about. Duck down to Calle Juderia Vieja for more interesting craft shops. Artesanía La Gárgola has plenty of highly endearing jewellery, metalwork and glassware, while Taller de Alfareria opposite specialises in pottery –cute, comical figurines in particular.
Segovia hotel recommendations
The Eurostars Plaza Acueducto is almost calculatingly bland chain fare, but provides nothing to moan about either. It does have location massively in its favour, though – it’s right opposite the aqueduct, and most rooms have at least a partial view of it.
Just off main square Plaza Mayor, the 15th century La Casa Mudejar plays up its historic detail – the wooden ceilings are gorgeous. But the romance is most evidence downstairs in the spa, which brims with swoony period touches.
The Don Felipe at the Alcázar end of town applies just enough arty flair to liven up what’s otherwise a solid, comfortable option with spacious rooms and free WiFi.
More Spain travel
Other Spain travel articles on Planet Whitley include:
- A first time visitor’s guide to Valladolid, Spain.
- How to see Picasso’s Guernica for free in Madrid.
- How to get into Madrid’s Royal Palace when tickets have sold out.
- How to beat the crowds at Casa Batllo in Barcelona.
- Madrid to Toledo train times and ticket prices.
