In Ghent, a Gothic cathedral houses the world’s most stolen artwork — the Van Eyck brothers’ Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. This 24-panel altarpiece that has survived iconoclasm, theft (13 times including by Napoleon and the Nazis), and a 1934 panel theft where one section remains missing. The recent restoration revealed colours so vibrant they shocked art historians. St Bavo’s Cathedral is a key reason why Ghent is one of the most underrated cities in Belgium, and arguably Europe.
If staying in Brussels, this splendid European cathedral is a key attraction on a Bruges and Ghent day tour from the Belgian capital.
Quick overview
The cathedral itself is free to enter. Viewing the Ghent Altarpiece costs €16 for adults (€6 with CityCard Ghent), including an augmented reality tour in the crypt. The 60-minute timed-entry experience requires advance online booking — walk-up tickets sell out during busy periods. Seven panels are currently replaced by photographs as restoration continues at the Museum of Fine Arts until spring 2027.
The cathedral opens Monday–Saturday 8:30am–5:30pm, Sunday 1pm–5:30pm. The Mystic Lamb Visitor’s Centre (altarpiece entrance) operates Monday–Saturday 10am–5pm, Sunday 1pm–5pm, with last entry at 4pm.
At a glance
| Price | Opening hours | Address | Free for | Last entry |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Free cathedral, €16 altarpiece (€6 CityCard) | Cathedral: Mon–Sat 8:30am–5:30pm, Sun 1pm–5:30pm | Sint-Baafsplein, 9000 Ghent | Cathedral free for all | 4pm for altarpiece |
How much does St Bavo’s Cathedral cost?
Entry to St Bavo’s Cathedral is free. You can walk in, admire the Gothic architecture, see Rubens’ Conversion of Saint Bavo, and explore the nave without charge. Only the secure chapel housing the Ghent Altarpiece requires a paid ticket.
Ghent Altarpiece admission (includes AR tour)
| Ticket type | Price | Who qualifies |
|---|---|---|
| Adult | €16.00 | Ages 19+ |
| CityCard Ghent | €6.00 | Valid CityCard required (must book online) |
| Child | Free | Ages 6–18 (children’s AR tour in Dutch, French, English) |
| Under-6s | Free | No ticket required |
The €16 adult ticket includes the AR (augmented reality) tour in the crypt and viewing the altarpiece. The 60-minute experience uses AR glasses to animate the cathedral’s history — you see the actual crypt around you whilst digital overlays explain the altarpiece’s tumultuous past.
A tablet option exists for visitors unable to wear AR glasses. The AR tour is available in Dutch, French, English, German, Spanish, Portuguese, Japanese, and Russian.
CityCard discount: CityCard Ghent holders pay just €6 instead of €16 — a €10 saving. You must book online before arriving, selecting “CityCard” at checkout. Present both your online ticket and CityCard at the entrance. The discount is not available for walk-up purchases at the ticket desk.
What time does St Bavo’s Cathedral open?
Cathedral (free entry):
Monday–Saturday: 8:30am–5:30pm
Sunday: 1pm–5:30pm
Mystic Lamb Visitor’s Centre (altarpiece):
Monday–Saturday: 10am–5pm
Sunday: 1pm–5pm
Last admission for the altarpiece: 4pm (60-minute AR tour means final visitors exit by 5pm)
Note the cathedral opens earlier (8:30am) than the altarpiece viewing area (10am) on weekdays. If you arrive at 8:30am, you can explore the free cathedral sections but must wait until 10am for your booked altarpiece time slot.
The cathedral closes altarpiece entry at 5pm even though the building remains open until 5:30pm — this causes confusion. The AR tour takes a full hour, so 4pm entry allows completion before closing.
Do I need to book St Bavo’s Cathedral tickets in advance?
For the free cathedral, no booking is required — simply walk in during opening hours.
For the Ghent Altarpiece, online booking is essential during peak periods (summer, weekends, Belgian holidays). Time slots sell out, especially 10am–2pm slots on sunny days. Walk-up tickets at the desk are subject to availability and often unavailable.
Booking process:
- Visit sintbaafskathedraal.be and select your preferred date and time
- Choose “Adult” (€16), “CityCard” (€6), or “Child” (free)
- Receive email confirmation with QR code
- Arrive at your booked time slot and show QR code at entrance
If you have a large bag or backpack, you’ll be asked to store it in free lockers beside the entrance. “Large” is subjective — regular daypacks are often deemed too big.
Parking advice
Ghent’s historic centre is a low-emission zone. Driving to St Bavo’s is neither necessary nor advisable. The cathedral sits in the pedestrianised old town where parking is scarce and expensive.
Recommended approach: Use Park & Ride facilities on Ghent’s outskirts (P+R De Sterre, P+R Gentbrugge, P+R Wondelgem). Parking costs €2.50 per day; tram tickets into the centre cost €3 single or €7 day pass.
Central car parks (if essential):
- Kouter car park (700m from cathedral) — €2.50 per hour, underground
- Vrijdagmarkt car park (500m from cathedral) — €3 per hour
- Sint-Michiels car park (600m from cathedral) — €2.80 per hour
All fill quickly on weekends. Daily maximums reach €20–€25, making P+R dramatically cheaper.
Public transport: Trams 1, 21, 22, and 24 serve the city centre, stopping near Sint-Baafsplein. From Ghent-Sint-Pieters railway station, tram 1 reaches the cathedral in 10 minutes. Ghent-Sint-Pieters connects to Brussels (30 minutes), Bruges (25 minutes), and Antwerp (50 minutes).
Of course, if you’re arriving on a Bruges and Ghent day tour from Brussels, none of this is your problem.
History
St Bavo’s began as a 10th-century Romanesque church dedicated to St John the Baptist. Count Philip of Alsace (the man behind the city’s Gravensteen) rebuilt it in the 1100s. The current Gothic structure dates from 1274, though construction continued for three centuries.
In 1432, Ghent merchant Jodocus Vijd commissioned Hubert and Jan van Eyck to create an altarpiece for the chapel he was endowing. Hubert died during the project; his brother Jan completed it. The resulting 24-panel masterpiece — The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb — became the cathedral’s defining treasure.
The altarpiece nearly didn’t survive. In 1566, Protestant iconoclasts destroyed Catholic art across the Low Countries. Cathedral staff dismantled the altarpiece and hid the panels in the belfry tower, saving them from destruction that claimed countless other works.
Napoleon seized the central panels in 1794, taking them to Paris as spoils of war. They returned to Ghent after Napoleon’s defeat in 1815. In 1816, the cathedral sold the side panels to an art dealer; they eventually ended up in Berlin‘s museums. The Treaty of Versailles (1919) mandated their return to Belgium.
The most infamous theft occurred in 1934. Thieves broke into the cathedral and stole two panels. One was returned following ransom negotiations; the other — The Just Judges — remains missing. The current panel in its place is a 1945 copy by Belgian artist Jef Van der Veken. The original’s location remains one of art history’s enduring mysteries.
Nazi art theft unit ERR seized the entire altarpiece in 1942, hiding it in an Austrian salt mine with other looted art. The Monuments Men (Allied art recovery specialists) found and returned it in 1945. The 2014 film The Monuments Men depicts this operation, though the altarpiece plays a minor role compared to its real-life significance.
Belgium’s government undertook comprehensive restoration from 2012–2024, addressing centuries of overpainting, smoke damage, and deterioration. The restoration revealed the Mystic Lamb’s face had been overpainted in the 16th century — the original features an unsettlingly humanoid expression that shocked viewers when revealed.
Seven upper panels are currently being restored at the Museum of Fine Arts (MSK), scheduled for completion in spring 2027. High-quality photographs replace them in the cathedral.
What to see at St Bavo’s Cathedral
The Ghent Altarpiece (Adoration of the Mystic Lamb) comprises 24 panels — 12 visible when closed, 12 when open. The cathedral displays it permanently open. The central lower panel shows a bleeding lamb on an altar, surrounded by worshippers. Upper panels depict God Enthroned, the Virgin Mary, and John the Baptist. The outer wings show Adam and Eve in unprecedented nudity for 1432.
The altarpiece is encased in bulletproof, climate-controlled glass following multiple theft attempts. This protection doesn’t diminish the experience — the restored colours are startlingly vivid. The level of detail (visible in Adam’s toenails, individual grass blades, fabric textures) remains remarkable nearly 600 years later.
The AR tour in the crypt uses augmented reality glasses to animate the cathedral’s history. Digital projections appear overlaid on the actual stone walls and vaults. You see the altarpiece being created, stolen by Napoleon, hidden during iconoclasm, and recovered by the Monuments Men. The technology works well — you see both the real space and digital enhancements simultaneously without motion sickness.
Rubens’ Conversion of Saint Bavo (1623–1624) hangs in the area you pass through before reaching the altarpiece. This massive Baroque work depicts Ghent’s patron saint renouncing worldly possessions. It’s overshadowed by the Van Eyck altarpiece but is itself a masterpiece.
The baroque high altar uses black, white, and red flamed marble in an elaborate 17th-century design. Most visitors overlook it entirely, rushing from the Rubens to the altarpiece.
Gothic architecture throughout the cathedral includes soaring vaulted ceilings, flying buttresses visible from outside, and stained glass windows. The nave’s sheer scale impresses even visitors focused solely on the altarpiece.
What’s included with your ticket?
Free cathedral entry includes:
- Gothic nave and architecture
- Rubens’ Conversion of Saint Bavo
- Baroque high altar
- Various chapels and side altars
- Freedom to wander at your own pace
€16 altarpiece ticket includes:
- 60-minute timed-entry experience
- AR tour in the crypt (multiple languages)
- Viewing the Ghent Altarpiece (behind protective glass)
- Access to the secure altarpiece chapel area
- Digital overlays explaining the work’s history
- Tablet option for those unable to wear AR glasses
Not included: Cathedral tower access (only open during July’s Ghent Festivities), guided tours (must book separately), café (none on site), parking, storage for large luggage (only backpack-sized items in lockers).
Things to do near St Bavo’s Cathedral
Belfry of Ghent (100m, 2-minute walk) — A 91-metre medieval tower begun in 1313, completed in 1380. Climb 256 steps (after the first flights, a lift covers middle sections) for panoramic views. The dragon mascot at the summit represents Ghent’s independence. Inside, see historic bells including Roland, which cracked in 1914. Warning: stairs are extremely narrow — you’ll squeeze past descending visitors on cramped spiral steps whilst balancing on one foot. Not for the claustrophobic.
St Nicholas’ Church (150m, 3-minute walk) — Free Gothic church built from distinctive blue-grey Tournai limestone. Constructed around 1225 for Ghent’s merchants and guilds. The interior is simpler than St Bavo’s but the flying buttresses exterior is architecturally significant. The 1960–2019 restoration returned it to former glory. Worth 20 minutes if you’re passing.
St Michael’s Bridge (200m, 4-minute walk) — The definitive Ghent photo spot. Stand mid-bridge for the iconic view: St Nicholas’ Church, the Belfry, and St Bavo’s Cathedral perfectly aligned. The 1909 bridge features St Michael defeating a dragon atop the central lamp post. Free, accessible 24 hours. Visit early morning (before 9am) for photos without crowds. This view appears on every Ghent postcard.
Museum of Fine Arts (MSK) (1.5km, 7-minute tram ride on line 1) — Currently displaying seven panels from the Ghent Altarpiece upper register during restoration. On weekdays, watch conservators working on the panels behind glass. Weekend visitors see the panels displayed without active restoration. Also houses works by Bosch, Rubens, and modern artists. The café serves excellent food — better than tourist traps near the cathedral.
STAM Ghent City Museum (1.2km, 15-minute walk or 7-minute tram) — Ghent’s history from prehistoric times to present, told through multimedia displays and a massive aerial map of the city. Housed in a renovated 14th-century abbey with modern architectural additions. Particularly strong on Ghent’s medieval textile trade and 19th-century industrialisation. Underrated by visitors who spend all their time in the old town.
Practical tips
Location and access: St Bavo’s Cathedral is on Sint-Baafsplein in central Ghent’s old town. The square also contains the Belfry and modern Stadshal (City Pavilion). Tram stops Korenmarkt (lines 1, 21, 22, 24) are 200 metres away. The cathedral is 1.5km from Ghent-Sint-Pieters railway station (10-minute tram ride or 20-minute walk).
What to wear: The cathedral maintains stable temperatures year-round (Gothic stone stays cool in summer, cold in winter). Bring layers. Respect the fact it’s an active place of worship — avoid shorts, sleeveless tops, and revealing clothing. This isn’t strictly enforced but shows consideration for worshippers.
Accessibility: St Bavo’s Cathedral and the Mystic Lamb Visitor’s Centre are fully wheelchair accessible. Lifts serve all levels including the crypt for the AR tour. Wheelchairs are available to borrow. The AR tour includes tactile experiences and audio descriptions for visually impaired visitors. Deaf/hard of hearing visitors can use subtitles on the AR glasses. Contact [email protected] for specific access requirements.
Photography: Permitted throughout the free cathedral for personal use without flash. Photography of the altarpiece itself is not allowed — the protective glass creates reflections anyway. The AR tour prohibits photography as it would distract from the experience. Commercial photography requires written permission.
Dogs: Not permitted except guide dogs and assistance dogs. The cathedral is an active place of worship where silent respect is expected.
Active worship: St Bavo’s is a functioning cathedral with daily Mass and services. Worshippers have priority access. During services, tourist areas may be restricted. Mass times are posted at the entrance — if you’re visiting during a service, maintain silence and don’t wander during prayers. Some visitors find the juxtaposition of active worship and tourist traffic jarring.
Restoration information: Seven upper panels are currently being restored at MSK (Museum of Fine Arts), replaced by high-quality photographs. Restoration completes in spring 2027. If seeing the complete original altarpiece is essential, wait until then. However, the photographs are excellent quality and the overall experience remains powerful.
Best time to visit: Weekday mornings (Tuesday–Thursday 10–11:30am) offer the quietest altarpiece viewing. Summer weekends and Belgian school holidays see 4pm time slots sell out days ahead. The free cathedral is busiest noon–3pm when tour groups arrive. Winter (November–March) has fewer tourists but the cathedral is colder. The AR tour’s digital projections work equally well any time of day.
FAQs
Can you visit the cathedral tower? No, not normally. The tower only opens during the Ghent Festivities (Gentse Feesten) in late July. During this 10-day festival, special tours allow tower access. The rest of the year, it’s closed. If you want tower views, visit the Belfry instead (open year-round, though the stairs are claustrophobic).
Is the missing Just Judges panel ever likely to be recovered? Unlikely after 90+ years. The 1934 thief died without revealing its location. Theories abound — hidden in the cathedral, buried in a Ghent garden, destroyed by Allied bombing. The current panel is a 1945 copy good enough that casual visitors don’t notice. Art historians hold minimal hope the original will surface.
Should I skip the AR tour and just see the altarpiece? No — the €16 ticket includes both and they’re designed as a combined experience. The AR tour explains why the altarpiece matters, its tumultuous history, and what you’re seeing. Without context, many visitors stare at the panels without understanding their significance. The AR tour transforms “impressive old painting” into “art that shaped Western civilisation.”
Why is the altarpiece kept behind bulletproof glass? Thirteen thefts (complete or attempted) since 1432 justify the protection. The 1934 theft saw two panels stolen; one remains missing. The protective glass is climate-controlled to preserve the work and prevents vandalism. It creates some reflections but doesn’t significantly diminish the viewing experience. Modern security means future generations can see it rather than reading about what was lost.
Is St Bavo’s better than Bruges’ Church of Our Lady? They’re different experiences. Bruges’ church has Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child (the only Michelangelo sculpture to leave Italy during his lifetime), but the church itself is less impressive architecturally. St Bavo’s altarpiece is arguably more significant in art history terms — the Van Eyck brothers essentially invented oil painting as we know it. Bruges is prettier overall, but St Bavo’s houses the more important artwork.
