Tavira travel guide for first time visitors

Historic Tavira offers a dose of authenticity on the Algarve – and an absolutely stunning beach.

What makes Tavira unique?

At the eastern end of southern Portugal’s perma-sunny Algarve region, Tavira has none of the brashness and concrete overdose that afflicts many of the resort towns in the centre. With a proud heritage dating back through Islamic Al-Andalus, the Roman era and Phoenician traders, Tavira has an authenticity about it that lends historical weight to its good looks.

And boy does it have the good looks. Built on either side of the Gilão river, just before it enters the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa’s mud flats and beachy islands, Tavira is an impeccable scene of whitewashed buildings and distinctively-tiled roofs.

The pace feels a little different here too – a little older, a little wiser, a little less harried – and Tavira’s mellow charm seeps in slowly but surely.

A walk through Tavira’s highlights

Start at the river on the small but pretty Ponte Romana stone bridge, then nip into the Nucleo Islamico. This small museum attached to the tourist information office covers the period, from the 11^th century to 1242, in which Tavira under Islamic rule. But it’s mostly archaeology in glass cases.

Then climb up the hill towards the Palacio da Galeria, where one exhibition is all somewhat arresting art installations, and another is a surprisingly gripping exploration of the Mediterranean region and its traditional diet.

At the top of the hill, the old castle ruins are ripe for clambering on, while the Torre Tavira, a former water tower, has been turned into a camera obscura. Its ingenious use of mirrors and lenses projects real-time 360 degree footage of the city onto a big white bowl.

Beach time in Tavira

The 11km long, dune-backed Ilha de Tavira is the best beach on the Algarve, and the locals know it. They’re more than happy to pile on to the ferry that leaves from the river bank in the city centre with the tourists. Once there, there are two major sections with sunbeds and umbrellas, but the smarter sun worshipper knows to keep walking 400-500 metres in order to effectively get a big swathe of sand and sea to themselves.

There are a few boat trip options that go from the river bank near the ferry terminal, but most require minimum numbers before they run. For solo travellers – and even couples – this can get very frustrating, especially if buying tickets on the promise that other people are likely to book for that trip, then turning up on the day to find it has been cancelled. Don’t book unless you fancy a gamble, or the departure is guaranteed.

Exploring near Tavira

Tavira is the best hub for exploring the eastern Algarve, and the drive up to Alcoutim along the Guadiana River which forms the border with Spain is beautiful. On the way back, the pocket-sized clifftop hamlet of Cacela Velha is about as gorgeous as European villages get. The setting and whitewashed buildings painted blue around the door and window frames make it exceptionally photogenic.

Alternatively, you can head out on the Ria Formosa lagoon and go snorkelling with seahorses.

Where to eat in Tavira

A Ver Tavira is up near the castle on the hill, and its terrace has good views out over the city. It veers away from Portuguese staples with the likes of albacore tuna cooked with soy sauce, lime green and sesame.

To go Portuguese, though, try Churrasqueria O Manel at Rua Dr Antonio Cabreira 39. It does classics like codfish in olive oil and piri piri chicken really rather well.

Shopping in Tavira

No-one comes to Tavira for the shopping, but some of the shops in the streets around the river have some pleasant knick-knackery. Bli on rua da Liberdade has floaty tops and dresses, soaps and smellies. Further down the street, the Casa Alavaro de Campos hosts a shop selling borderline gaudy bright clothing, filigree jewellery and those absolute essentials – owls made from leather.

Tavira accommodation recommendations

The Pousada do Convento de Graca, inside a converted monastery and with the old ruined castle walls providing an impressive backdrop to the pool, is the star. The high-ceilinged rooms with dark wood floors and decadently smooth bedsheets are built around the cloisters.

The Quinta do Carocol is a 10-15 minute walk from the river, but it’s utterly lovely. A converted farmhouse with almond and orange trees, a ye olde waterwheel and apartment-style rooms with kitchenettes, it has real heart.

At the budget end, rooms at the Residencial Lagoas are simple but with surprisingly high quality king beds, the basics got right and a little roof terrace with sunbeds.