Long used as a base for exploring Venice, the Veneto city of Treviso has its own charms.
What’s Treviso all about?
Treviso is cursed by a reputation of being somewhere to pass through. Its tiny airport is used by European budget airlines as a cheaper alternative to Venice’s, and many people landing there head straight towards a Venice-bound bus. Others take advantage of Treviso’s cheaper hotels, then commute into Venice by train.
Such an approach does Treviso a tremendous disservice. It doesn’t need to shout all that loud about its charms, as it’s a highly prosperous city, but the walled old town area is an absolute pleasure to walk around. Geese and ducks strut alongside rivers and canals, old wooden waterwheels still turn near cutesy bridges, handsome porticos line streets and noses poking through doors are often met with staggering fresco artwork.
Treviso also punches above its weight culturally – it has a nice line in attracting high grade temporary exhibitions that feel like they should be in a much bigger city.
A walk through Treviso’s highlights
The Piazza dei Signori is the city’s central hub, shadowed by the hulking, brick-constructed Palazzo dei Trecento and its relatively dainty tower. From there, head down to Piazza Carducci, where the Loggia dei Cavalieri is a former noble’s lodge that’s now open to the elements on three sides. Look up – there are some rather marvellous 14th century frescos at the top.
To the east, the Casa dei Carraresi and Museo Civico di Santa Caterina are the two top cultural fixes. The former is home to big ticket temporary exhibitions. The latter has a well-presented art and archaeology collection, plus yet more ahead-of-their-time 14th century frescos inside a deconsecrated church.
Once the worthy stuff is complete, it’s best to stick the simple pleasures, ambling along the canals – the Buranelli canal is spectacularly pretty – and along the tops of the city walls. The stretch at the northern end of the city is best preserved for strolling and jogging along.
Treviso’s top attraction
The San Nicolo church – a tall, hulking red brick affair – is architecturally pleasing. But the chapterhouse of the Seminario next to it is home to an extraordinary 14th century fresco series by Tommaso da Modena. It depicts 40 monks and cardinals sat at their desks, some reading, some writing, but all slightly different and imbued with personality. One wears spectacles – and it’s thought to be the first time they’ve ever been depicted in art. The lifelike renditions belong to the Renaissance, even though they were painted before the Renaissance kicked in.
Treviso tours and experiences
Top Treviso activities include prosecco tastings, pasta and tiramisu-making classes and a day tour into the Dolomites.
A sporting detour?
In a football-obsessed country, Treviso is a rugby oasis. The Benetton Treviso rugby club has long been the strongest in Italy, and plays in both the Guinness Pro12 and European Rugby Champions Cup competitions. Games, with a vocal local support, are played at the Stadio Monigo to the north-west of the old city.
Treviso restaurant tips
Treviso is supposedly the birthplace of the tiramisu – with Le Beccherie having the strongest claim to inventing it.
Elsewhere, L’Antico Morer has a lovely, leafy patio out front, and a strong seafood focus. The tuna coated in pistachio crust on a bed of aubergine is seriously good – but this is somewhere you happily settle in for all four courses.
For something cheap, popular with the locals and surprisingly high quality, the Pizzeria da Roberto throws in plenty of unusual pizza toppings, including horse meat, goose, radicchio (the regionally-grown, bitter-tasting, red lettuce) and a Who’s Who of cheeses. The calzones are gigantic.
Shopping in Treviso
The main shopping street is Calmaggiore, which runs from the Piazza dei Signori to the cathedral, and features clusters of classy fashion and jewellery shops.
But the big fashion name in these parts is Benetton, which runs its global empire from Treviso, and has a three-story, free-standing flagship store in Piazza Indipendenza.
Treviso accommodation recommendations
Maison Matilda is Treviso’s most stylish option, with each room having its own individual look and feel – although a knowingly sensuous vintage theme runs throughout. The icing on the cake is a wood-decked terrace courtyard area with sunloungers.
The Carlton is close to the train station – handy for those day-tripping into Venice – and adds a bit of pep to what could easily be a generic four star. Lobby windows are covered in child-like paintings, artwork in rooms seems carefully curated, each floor has a different colour scheme and many rooms come with small balconies.
Just on the southern side of the station, the Palazzo Brando is aimed at slightly longer stays. The apartments are homely rather than business-slanted, but come with full kitchens, separate lounge areas, washing machines and free parking.
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