On a walking tour down Pennsylvania Avenue, visitors can find out where the power in Washington DC really lies.
Monica Beach
“Welcome to Monica Beach,” says Tom Diemer. The drab, grey plaza outside the E Barrett Prettyman United States Courthouse is somewhat lacking in palm trees and sun loungers, but to the Washington DC political press pack, the nickname will always stick.
“Almost all corruption and scandal cases come through here, and during the Lewinsky case there were always cameramen out here,” says Tom. “It was a hot summer, so everyone gathered here called it Monica Beach.”
From the White House to the Capitol
The courthouse is one of the less obvious sites on Washington DC’s corridor of power, Pennsylvania Avenue. The White House is perched at number 1600 NW, and the trek uphill from there leads to the US Capitol and Supreme Court. Between them are numerous pompous neo-classical buildings, many belonging to key government departments. The FBI headquarters and National Archives, where the US Constitution and Declaration of Independence are kept like precious jewels, are also en route.
Expense accounts at the Capital Grille
During his decades reporting for the likes of Associated Press and Politics Daily, Tom Diemer has been inside most of these buildings for press conferences, interviews and chats with sources. He has also spent more than enough time in the likes of the Capital Grille. “It’s a classic American-style steakhouse with big dishes,” says Tom. “It’s an expense account place, and it was always understood that the lobbyists would be picking up the tab.”
Lobbyists at the Willard Hotel
And it’s in the spiritual home of lobbyists that Context Travel’s Washington DC politics tour starts. The Willard Hotel opened in 1847. It’s where Martin Luther King Jr put the finishing touches on his I Have A Dream speech, and Abraham Lincoln’s $773.75 bill is still on display. He and his family stayed there for ten days before moving into the White House.
But the story that gives the Willard its legendary status relates to Ulysses S Grant. Tom says: “At the end of the day, Grant would walk over from the White House for brandy and cigars. People would bug him in the lobby when he wanted to relax, and started muttering about the ‘lobbyists’.”
That, supposedly, is where the term comes from. And reporters still come here to conduct interviews today.
Where the power lies in Washington DC
Walking Pennsylvania Avenue, it becomes clear where the concept of bills “coming down the hill” from the Capitol to the White House originates. It’s very literal, although Tom says the power isn’t wielded where you think it is on Capitol Hill. The showy dome of the Capitol building may dominate the view, but surprisingly little happens there.
Tom points to the massive office blocks either side. They, apparently, are where the negotiations take place and the work gets ploughed through.
The West Front Lawn summerhouse
But just in the shadow of the Capitol is one historic oddity that the clueless visitor wouldn’t even think to look for.
On the West Front Lawn, there’s a bizarre hexagonal brick structure. The 19th century summerhouse was designed in the 19th century by Frederick Law Olmstead – who landscaped Central Park in New York. Through the railings is a tiddly green gully, where the natural spring was originally used by Congressmen to give their horses a drink.
Now though, it’s somewhere to escape for a sandwich in the open air – and perhaps the odd secretive discussion away from prying ears. The secrets of America’s power strip don’t necessarily unveil themselves in the obvious places…
