Five reasons to consider Bologna as your next Italian city break.
When most people think of an Italian city break, they tend to think in terms of the big trio – Rome, Florence and Venice. But there’s one Italian city that flies under the radar somewhat and is arguably more beautiful than any of them. It also feels a lot more real – there aren’t areas entirely taken over by tourists and rip-off cafés are notable by their absence. Where is this magical place? Why, let me introduce Bologna…
- To choose from a large range of Bologna experiences – including food tours – head here.
The porticos of Bologna
Massively in Bologna’s favour is a relatively compact centre, which contains most of the attractions you’ll plausibly want to see. But it’s the relatively uniform look of that centre that makes Bologna so special. It is lined with miles and miles of porticos – effectively arched roof structures that cover the pavements – and the combined effect of them is just stunning. Most are made of red brick, giving that not-too-polished edge that stops Bologna being too prissily pretty for its own good.
The Two Towers in Bologna
Back in medieval days, rich families built themselves towers in flagrant displays of showing off. Most have since been pulled down, but two stand next to each other in the city centre. The shorter Torre di Garisenda has a somewhat precarious lean to it and the public aren’t allowed in. But it is possible to go up the Torre di Asinelli if you’re prepared to brave an awful lot of steps and somewhat claustrophobic conditions. The views from the top are superb.
The food in Bologna
Don’t expect dismal ham and mozzarella sandwiches or flaccid pizza slices here – the Emilia Romagna region is regarded as Italy’s best foodie region, and Bologna is at the heart of it. It tends to be the richer the better here, with some outstanding local produce going into the dishes. But don’t go expecting spaghetti Bolognese – supposedly the city’s famous dish – as that’s regarded as a grotesque bastardisation of the real deal. Always look for tagliatelle al ragu…
Gelato in Bologna
Save some room for dessert though. This is a place to expand your ice cream horizons and bow down to the inescapable truth that Italians just do it better. Gelateria Gianni near the Two Towers produces the best gelato I’ve ever tasted – the chocolate version is absolutely astonishing.
If that gets the tastebuds going, the Gelato Museum can be found a shortish bus ride away in Anzola Emilia. It goes into the (surprisingly ancient) history of frozen desserts and runs workshops teaching you how to make your own gelati and sorbetti.
The university of Bologna
Bologna’s university is the oldest in Europe, and the main buildings can be found in the north-eastern area of the city centre. The one you really, really don’t want to miss is the Palazzo Poggi, as this hosts the uni’s museum collections. And they are spectacularly weird.
All manner of weird stuff sits in glass cases, but it’s the flayed anatomical models and room full of cases containing model uteruses that will haunt your nightmares for the rest of eternity.
