A mosque converted into a cathedral, the Mezquita in Córdoba, Spain, is a mesmerising field of archways.
Entering Córdoba’s Mezquita
The grand patio of Córdoba’s Mezquita is a vision of all that is lovely about Andalucia. The centuries-old walls surround orange trees bearing fruit, and meticulously-spaced water channels create a pattern across the stone floor.
But once through the big, heavy, wooden entrance doors, the Mezquita ascends to a whole new level. Hundreds of alternating brick and stone, red and white arches spread across the horizon, bringing to mind a somewhat psychedelic, drug-induced Scooby Doo fairground. The combined effect is utterly mesmerising.
From mosque to cathedral
Technically, this is the mother church of the local diocese, and it was consecrated as such in 1236. It was built on the site of the Basilica of St Vincent the Martyr, a Visigothic Church from the 6th century. A special glass floor in one part of the Mezquita looks down on the remains.
But the point about the Mezquita is that it looks absolutely nothing like a church, and that’s due to it being the main mosque of a vast Islamic caliphate for hundreds of years. From 785 onwards, it was the most important sanctuary of Western Islam. And under various caliphs, the building grew ever larger and grander.
The chapels and the mihrab
Age and scale make the Mezquita one of the greatest buildings in the world, by pretty much anyone’s standards. But it’s the bizarre mix of religions that makes it truly special. At the edges of that spellbinding sea of arches are small side chapels full of the usual Catholic OTT gold-splashed decoration, marble-swathed tombs and figurines of the Virgin Mary.
At the far end, though, is something you might expect to have been destroyed as Córdoba came back under Christian control. The mihrab, the wall niche that indicates the direction of Mecca, is surrounded by the most extraordinarily delicate mosaic tiling. And, again, the strange mix of cultures comes in.
The Mihrab was made during the height of the Córdoba caliphate, and it was decided to bring in the very best artists to make the mosaics. They happened to come from the Byzantine Empire, which at the time was largely Orthodox Christian. Huge paintings are found on either side, while a side door to the left leads to the treasury containing the gigantic monstrance that is still used in Easter processions today.
The Mezquita red-and-white arches
The biggest head-scratcher, however, comes inside the centre. Amble long enough in wonder through that never-ending field of red-and-white arches, and you suddenly hit the cathedral. Which is superbly incongruously inside the mother church. Which, should you be struggling to keep up, looks like a mosque.
The cathedral alone would be worth seeing – it’s hardly a shrinking violet. Statues of girls, cherubs and nymphs climb high above the altar, surrounded by no expense spared lashings of red marble. The domes above have undergone a blitz of showy decoration. Behind, dark wood choir stalls are carved with ultrafussiness, and two organs soar to the heavens at either side.
But it’s as if everyone’s just agreed to ignore the fact that there’s a massive mosque surrounding it on all sides. Nothing weird to see here; just turn to the next page of the prayer book.
However, if any church is going to cure you of the church and cathedral ambivalence that comes from traipsing round too many of them, the Mezquita is it.
More Córdoba travel
Other Córdoba articles on Planet Whitley include:
- The Madrid to Córdoba train: Is this feasible day trip?
For more Córdoba activities, experiences and tours, check out the range of options here.
