A mosque converted into a cathedral, the Mezquita in Córdoba, Spain, is a mesmerising field of archways.
Entering Córdoba’s Mezquita
The grand patio of Córdoba’s Mezquita is a vision of all that is lovely about Andalucia. The centuries-old walls surround orange trees bearing fruit, and meticulously-spaced water channels create a pattern across the stone floor.
But once through the big, heavy, wooden entrance doors, the Mezquita ascends to a whole new level. Hundreds of alternating brick and stone, red and white arches spread across the horizon, bringing to mind a somewhat psychedelic, drug-induced Scooby Doo fairground. The combined effect is utterly mesmerising.
From mosque to cathedral
Technically, this is the mother church of the local diocese, and it was consecrated as such in 1236. It was built on the site of the Basilica of St Vincent the Martyr, a Visigothic Church from the 6th century. A special glass floor in one part of the Mezquita looks down on the remains.
But the point about the Mezquita is that it looks absolutely nothing like a church, and that’s due to it being the main mosque of a vast Islamic caliphate for hundreds of years. From 785 onwards, it was the most important sanctuary of Western Islam. And under various caliphs, the building grew ever larger and grander.
Why book the guided tour of the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba?
- In-depth guided visit: Explore the Mosque-Cathedral with a licensed guide who explains its layered Islamic and Christian history.
- Understand the architecture: Learn the meaning behind the red-and-white arches, mihrab and later cathedral additions.
- Clear historical context: The tour explains how the building evolved over centuries under different rulers.
- Structured and unhurried: Follow a logical route through the monument without feeling rushed or overwhelmed.
- Ideal for first-time visitors: A practical way to appreciate details that are easy to miss when visiting independently.
The chapels and the mihrab
Age and scale make the Mezquita one of the greatest buildings in the world, by pretty much anyone’s standards. But it’s the bizarre mix of religions that makes it truly special. At the edges of that spellbinding sea of arches are small side chapels full of the usual Catholic OTT gold-splashed decoration, marble-swathed tombs and figurines of the Virgin Mary.
At the far end, though, is something you might expect to have been destroyed as Córdoba came back under Christian control. The mihrab, the wall niche that indicates the direction of Mecca, is surrounded by the most extraordinarily delicate mosaic tiling. And, again, the strange mix of cultures comes in.
The Mihrab was made during the height of the Córdoba caliphate, and it was decided to bring in the very best artists to make the mosaics. They happened to come from the Byzantine Empire, which at the time was largely Orthodox Christian. Huge paintings are found on either side, while a side door to the left leads to the treasury containing the gigantic monstrance that is still used in Easter processions today.
The Mezquita red-and-white arches
The biggest head-scratcher, however, comes inside the centre. Amble long enough in wonder through that never-ending field of red-and-white arches, and you suddenly hit one of the finest cathedrals in Spain. Which is superbly incongruously inside the mother church. Which, should you be struggling to keep up, looks like a mosque.
The cathedral alone would be worth seeing – it’s hardly a shrinking violet. Statues of girls, cherubs and nymphs climb high above the altar, surrounded by no expense spared lashings of red marble. The domes above have undergone a blitz of showy decoration. Behind, dark wood choir stalls are carved with ultrafussiness, and two organs soar to the heavens at either side.
But it’s as if everyone’s just agreed to ignore the fact that there’s a massive mosque surrounding it on all sides. Nothing weird to see here; just turn to the next page of the prayer book.
However, if any church is going to cure you of the church and cathedral ambivalence that comes from traipsing round too many of them, the Mezquita is it.
Mezquita-Cathedral entrance fees
The cost to enter the Mezquita-Cathedral of Córdoba varies depending on the type of visit, with options available for general admission, combined tickets, and early morning access.
| Ticket type | Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| General admission (Mezquita-Cathedral) | €13.00 | Includes the general visit to the monument. |
| Bell tower (Torre del Alminar) | €3.00 | Separate ticket required for access to the tower. Free for residents born in the Diocese of Córdoba. |
| Night visit (“The soul of Córdoba”) | €20.00 | A unique sound and light experience. Reduced tickets (€14.00) available for seniors, students, and children over 7. |
| Reduced admission (Ages 10–14) | €7.00 | Requires official accreditation upon entry. |
| Free access (General visit) | €0.00 | Available Monday to Saturday, from 8:30 to 9:30. Visitors must leave at 9:20 for mass. Group visits are not permitted during this time. |
| Free admission | €0.00 | Applies to children under 10, residents born in the Diocese of Córdoba, and people with a disability rating above 64% plus a caregiver. |
Nearby attractions to the Mezquita-Cathedral
The Mezquita-Cathedral is centrally located within Córdoba’s historic quarter, designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, providing immediate access to several other points of interest.
- Patio de los Naranjos: The Orange Tree Courtyard is the expansive forecourt of the Mezquita-Cathedral complex, filled with orange trees, palms, and fountains. Access to the courtyard is generally free throughout the day.
- Jewish Quarter (Judería): This historic neighbourhood immediately surrounds the monument, characterised by narrow streets, whitewashed houses, and flowered courtyards.
- Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos: A historic fortress located a short distance from the Mezquita-Cathedral. It served as a primary residence for Catholic Monarchs and is noted for its Roman mosaics and gardens.
- Puente Romano: The Roman Bridge spans the Guadalquivir River and offers a commanding view of the city skyline, including the Mezquita-Cathedral and the Bell Tower.
FAQ: Visitor questions about the Mezquita-Cathedral
Common questions from visitors concerning logistics, clothing, and ticket requirements for the monument.
| Question | Answer |
|---|---|
| Is there a way to visit the Mezquita-Cathedral for free? | Yes, free access is available from 8:30 AM to 9:30 AM, Monday to Saturday. This period is dedicated to general visits before morning mass, requiring visitors to exit the main monument area by 9:20 AM. |
| Is there a dress code for the Mezquita-Cathedral? | Yes. Since the monument is an active place of Catholic worship, visitors are required to wear appropriate clothing. This typically means covering shoulders and knees. Guests are asked not to wear hats or caps inside the building. |
| Do children require a ticket, even if they enter for free? | Yes. All visitors, regardless of age, require a ticket for access to the monument, even when the admission price is €0.00 (free entry). |
| Are we allowed to take photographs inside the Mezquita-Cathedral? | Photography is generally permitted for personal use, but visitors must not use tripods or flash. Photography is strictly prohibited during the night visit, “The soul of Córdoba.” |
More Córdoba travel
Other Córdoba articles on Planet Whitley include:
- The Madrid to Córdoba train: Is this feasible day trip?
- Five things to do in Cordoba once you’ve seen the Mezquita.
For more Córdoba activities, experiences and tours, check out the range of options here.
More Andalucia travel
Other Andalucia travel articles on Planet Whitley include:
- A guide to Granada for first time visitors.
- How to see the Nasrid Palaces in Granada when Alhambra tickets have sold out.
- Review of Granada’s Spanish Inquisition museum.
- A guide to Almeria for first time visitors.
- Does the Almeria to Granada train make for a viable day trip?
